Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [3]
If you’re traveling by car, there are excellent links between Paris and most French cities, but poor ones between the provinces. For the fastest route between two points, look for roads marked A for autoroute. A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies, but can be steep. Note that gas prices are also steep, upward of €1.30 a liter, or about $6.50 a gallon.
Although renting a car is about twice as expensive as in the United States, it’s the best way to see remote corners of the lovely French countryside. To get the best rate, book a rental car at home, and well in advance if you’re planning a trip in summer and early fall. If you want automatic transmission, which is more expensive, be sure to ask for it when you reserve.
Here’s a good tip: If you’re traveling from Paris, a practical option is to take the TGV to another large city, such as Avignon or Nice, and rent a car there.
HOURS
In Paris and larger cities, store hours are generally 10 AM to 7:30 PM; smaller shops may open later. Elsewhere, expect stores to close in the afternoon, usually 2–4. Museums are closed one day a week, often Tuesday. As a general rule, shops close on Sunday, though many food stores are open in the morning.
TIPS ON EATING AND STAYING
Restaurants follow French mealtimes, serving lunch from noon to 2 or 2:30 and dinner from 7:30 or 8 on. Some cafés in larger cities serve food all day long. Always reserve a table for dinner, as top restaurants book up months in advance. You must ask for the check (it’s considered rude to bring it unbidden) except in cafés, where a register slip often comes with your order. Gratuities (servis) are included in the bill, but leave some small change on the table: a few cents for drinks, €1 for lunch, or €3 at dinner. You can leave more at a top restaurant, but note that more than 10% is considered extremely generous.
To save money on food, take advantage of France’s wonderful outdoor markets and chain supermarkets. Just about every town has its own market once or a couple times a week. Ask the people at the front desk of wherever you’re staying to find out when market days are. For supermarkets, the largest chain is Monoprix.
Some of the bigger stores have cafés where you can sit down and eat whatever you buy, as well as mini department stores that sell everything from clothing to children’s toys to toiletries. French cities generally have good hotel options at decent prices. There are several options in Paris, including furnished apartments, at all price levels.
In the countryside, seek out chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts), which can mean anything from a modest room in a host’s home to a grand suite in a Norman château or Provençal farmhouse. Or rent a gîte rural, a furnished apartment, often on a farm or a larger property.
FÊTE-ING IT UP
Spring. Spot your favorite star at the Cannes Film Festival in May (www.festival-cannes.fr). The French Open kicks off the last week of May in Paris (www.rolandgarros.com).
Love grand cru? Head to Bordeaux for the wine festival in late June (www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com).
Summer. Avignon sparkles in July during the monthlong theater and arts festival (www.festival-avignon.com). French cities and towns celebrate le 14 juillet (July 14, Bastille Day), marking the start of the French Revolution (www.14-juillet.cityvox.com).
The popular Paris Plage transforms the Seine’s banks into a “beach” in mid-July with palm trees, sand, and lounge chairs (www.paris.fr).
Fall. Tour France’s most beautiful buildings on the Journée du Patrimoine (Patrimony Day), usually the third Sunday in September (www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr).
Paris has cultural events throughout September for la rentrée (the return) from summer vacation (www.paris.fr).
Winter. The Carnaval de Nice rocks Lent for three weeks in February (www.nicecarnaval.com). Strasbourg’s famous Marchés de Noël (Christmas Markets) runs from late November to early January (www.noel-strasbourg.com).
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