Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [38]
VITRÉ
32 km (20 mi) south of Fougères via D798 and D178.
There’s still a feel of the Middle Ages about the formidable castle, tightly packed half-timber houses, remaining ramparts, and dark alleyways of Vitré (pronounced vee-tray). Built high above the Vilaine Valley, the medieval walled town that spreads out from the castle’s gates, though small, is the best-preserved in Brittany, and utterly beguiling. The Disney-esque castle stands at the west end of town, facing narrow, cobbled streets as picturesque as any in Brittany—Rue Poterie, Rue d’Embas, and Rue Beaudrairie, originally the home of tanners (the name comes from baudoyers, or leather workers).
Getting Here and Around
Several trains traveling between Paris and Rennes stop daily in Vitré. The trip from Rennes takes 30 minutes. Both SNCF and TIV run a couple of daily buses between Vitré and Fougères (35 mins) but only one round-trip on Sunday.
Visitor Information
Vitré Tourist Office.
| Pl. St-Yves | 35500 | 02–99–75–04–46 | www.ot-vitre.fr.
EXPLORING VITRÉ
Rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries to protect Brittany from invasion, the fairy-tale, 11th-century Château de Vitré—shaped in an imposing triangle with fat, round towers—proved to be one of the province’s most successful fortresses: during the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453) the English repeatedly failed to take it, even when they occupied the rest of the town.
It’s a splendid sight, especially from the vantage point of Rue de Fougères across the river valley below. Time, not foreigners, came closest to ravaging the castle, which has been heavily though tastefully restored during the past century.
The Hôtel de Ville (town hall), however, is an unfortunate 1913 accretion to the castle courtyard. Visit the wing to the left of the entrance, beginning with the Tour St-Laurent and its museum, which contains 15th- and 16th-century sculptures, Aubusson tapestries, and engravings.
Continue along the walls via the Tour de l’Argenterie—which contains a macabre collection of stuffed frogs and reptiles preserved in glass jars—to the Tour de l’Oratoire (Oratory Tower). | 02–99–75–04–54 | www.mairie-vitre.com | €4 | May–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:45 and 2–6; Oct.–Apr., Mon. and Wed.–Sat. 10–12:15 and 2–5:30, Sun. 2–5:30.
Fragments of the town’s medieval ramparts include the 15th-century Tour de la Bridolle (Pl. de la République | 35500), five blocks up from the castle.
The church of Notre-Dame (Pl. Notre-Dame | 35500), with its fine, pinnacled south front, was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. There are at least 10 other picturesque historical sites, from medieval postern gateways to the 14th-century Saint Nicolas hospital chapel (now a museum of religious art) within town; other jewels, such as Madame de Sévigné’s Château-Musée des Roches-Sévigné, are set in the nearby countryside. Inquire at the tourist office for details.
WHERE TO STAY IN VITRÉ
Le Petit Billot.
¢ | Carved paneling in the breakfast room and faded pastel tones give this small family-run hotel a delightful French provincial air. Rooms may not be spacious but are spic-and-span, and a steal at the price. The hotel has an informal relationship with Le Potager, the restaurant right next door, which serves reliable, though rather unexciting, Breton cuisine (closed Monday, no lunch Saturday, no dinner Sunday). Pros: family ambience; great value. Cons: rooms are small; most have only shower not bath. | 5 bis, pl. du Général-Leclerc | 35500 | 02–99–75–02–10 | www.petit-billot.com | 21 rooms, 4 with bath | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | EP.
RENNES
36 km (22 mi) west of Vitré via D857 and N157, 345 km (215 mi) west of Paris, 107 km (66 mi) north of Nantes.
Packed with students during the school year, studded with sterile 18th-century granite buildings, and yet graced with medieval houses, Rennes (pronounced wren) is the traditional gateway to Brittany. Since the province was joined to Paris in 1532, Rennes has been the site of