Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [40]
A late-18th-century building in Classical style that took 57 years to construct, the Cathédrale St-Pierre looms above Rue de la Monnaie at the west end of the Vieille Ville (Old Town), bordered by the Rance River. Stop in to admire its richly decorated interior and outstanding 16th-century Flemish altarpiece. | Pl. St-Pierre | 35000 | Mon.–Sat. 8:30–noon and 2–5, Sun. 8:30–noon.
Take care to stroll through the lovely Parc du Thabor (Pl. St-Melaine | 35000), east of the Palais des Musées. It’s a large, formal French garden with regimented rows of trees, shrubs, and flowers, and a notable view of the church of Notre-Dame-en-St-Melaine.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN RENNES
Picca.
$$ | FRENCH | Around the corner from the Palais de Justice and next to the municipal theater is this oddly named brasserie that serves Patrick Pochic’s traditional Breton cuisine, ranging from scallops to entrecôte steaks. Its huge, sunny terrace is the perfect place to people-watch while downing a half dozen fresh oysters and an aperitif. The prix-fixe menu is €13.50. | 15 Galeries du Théâtre | 35000 | 02–99–78–17–17 | MC, V.
Garden.
¢–$ | With all rooms overlooking a picturesque, stone-lined, trelliage-bedecked garden, this hotel likes to welcome visitors to “silent nights”—restful, too, thanks to the guest room decor. As charmant as they come, they are stylishly wrought in cheery pink and orange pastels, wicker-wood headboards, and fetching wood-trim furniture. Breakfast is served in the garden when possible, and its age-old wooden gallery makes this sunny inner courtyard a sweet place to reboot yourself. Room 202 is the most spacious. Pros: pretty architecture; handy for sites. Cons: rooms small; parking difficult. | 3 rue Jean-Marie-Duhamel | 35000 | 02–99–65–45–06 | www.hotel-garden.fr | 25 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, MC, V.
LeCoq-Gadby.
$$$–$$$$ | A 19th-century mansion with huge fireplaces and antiques sets the stage for this cozy retreat. Homey guest rooms have four-poster beds and floral covers, while hydrotherapy facilities, a hammam (steam room), a Jacuzzi, and a sauna are all available if you want to be pampered. Pierre Le Grand’s cuisine must be good—French presidents have dined here on such delicacies as pigeonneau en cocotte au beurre salé (pigeon casserole with salted butter). Book way in advance for this popular hotel and restaurant (closed Sunday). Pros: manorial ambience; great cuisine. Cons: hotel rooms often booked solid; small portions in restaurant. | 156 rue d’Antrain | 35700 | 02–99–38–05–55 | www.lecoq-gadby.com | 14 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.
Mercure Rennes Place de Bretagne.
$$–$$$ | Ranging in style from Rococo revisited to severe Neoclassical, these three side-by-side stately 19th-century buildings add up to one centrally located good option. On a quiet, narrow backstreet close to the cathedral—and a few blocks away from the town’s main museums, opera, and theaters—the hotel offers a sleek, minimal-meets-trad interior. In the lobby, clocks toll the hours in countries around the world, while modern, clean-as-a-pin guest rooms, all in beiges and maroons, offer tranquil havens for businesspeople and weary travelers. Pros: city-center location; quiet rooms. Cons: bland decor; no restaurant. | 6 rue Lanjuinais | 35000 | 02–99–79–12–36 | www.mercure.com | 48 rooms | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.
NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN RENNES
The streets around Place Ste-Anne are jammed with popular student bars, most of them housed in fantastic medieval buildings with character to spare.
If you feel like dancing the night away, head to L’Espace (45 bd. de la Tour d’Auvergne | 35000 | 02–99–30–21–95). For the night owl, Pym’s Club (27 pl. du Colombier | 35000 | 02–99–67–30–00), with three dance floors, stays open