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Dinan’s harbor, is also a beautifully preserved medieval street, divided halfway down by the town walls and the massive Porte du Jerzual gateway and lined with restaurants, boutiques, and crafts shops in the converted 15th- and 16th-century warehouses. In summer, boats make the 2-hour, 45-minute trip down the Rance River to St-Malo (€29 round-trip); call | 08–25–13–81–10 for details. Or you can head upstream on a one-hour round-trip on an old longboat, the Jaman IV, through a lock to the medieval abbey of St-Magloire, and learn how Napoléon canalized the Rance to enable French boats to cut across to the Atlantic and avoid English warships in the English Channel (€9 round-trip); check | www.vedettejamaniv.com. Above the harbor, near Porte St-Malo, is the leafy Promenade des Grands Fossés, the best-preserved section of the town walls, which leads to the castle.

For a superb view of town, climb to the top of the medieval Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower). | Passage de la Tour de l’Horloge | 22100 | 02–96–87–58–72 | €3 | Apr. and May, daily 2–6; June–Sept., daily 10–6:30.

Du Guesclin’s heart lies in the north transept of the Basilique St-Sauveur (Pl. St-Sauveur | 22100). The church’s style ranges from the Romanesque south front to the Flamboyant Gothic facade and Renaissance side chapels. The old trees in the Jardin Anglais (English Garden) behind the church provide a nice frame. More spectacular views can be found at the bottom of the garden, which looks down the plummeting Rance Valley to the river below.

The stolidly built, fortresslike Château, at the end of the Promenade des Petits Fossés, has a two-story tower, the Tour du Coëtquen, and a 100-foot, 14th-century donjon (keep) containing a museum with varied displays of medieval effigies and statues, Breton furniture, and locally made lace coiffes (head coverings). | Porte de Guichet | 22100 | 02–96–39–45–20 | mairie-dinan.com | €4.50 | June–Oct., daily 10–6:30; Nov., Dec., and Feb.–May, daily 1:30–5:30.

WHERE TO STAY IN DINAN

Arvor.

¢–$ | The cobbled streets of the Vieille Ville are visible from this comfortable 18th-century hotel directly across from the town theater. It offers clean and simple rooms, in pastel tones with rustic wooden furniture—Nos. 11 and 21 are largest, with pleasing views over the old town; rooms on the top floor have sloping ceilings. Service under owner Monsieur Renault is personal and friendly, and free on-site parking is a real plus in the busy town center. Pros: central; pleasant views from most rooms. Cons: hard to park; cramped bathrooms. | 5 rue Auguste-Pavie | 22100 | 02–96–39–21–22 | hotelarvordinan.com | 24 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: some pets allowed | DC, MC, V | Closed Jan.

D’Avaugour.

$$–$$$ | Set on the town ramparts, with pretty sash windows, mansard roofs, and a Breton stone facade, this hotel has a sunny flower garden, which the best rooms (such as No. 19 and No. 28) overlook, and where breakfast and afternoon tea are served. Start the day with the full buffet breakfast and a chat with the charming owner, Nicolas Caron, who enjoys speaking English and helping everyone plan day trips. There’s a colorful street market opposite the hotel every Thursday. Pros: great breakfasts; friendly welcome. Cons: can be noisy; not all rooms have a view. | 1 pl. du Champ | 22100 | 02–96–39–07–49 | www.avaugourhotel.com | 21 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: some pets allowed | MC, V | Closed Nov.–Feb. | BP.

SHOPPING IN DINAN

One of the leading craft havens in France, Dinan has attracted many wood-carvers, jewelers, leather workers, glass specialists, and silk painters, who have set up shop in the medieval houses that line the cobbled, sloping Rue de Jerzual. Other delightful studios and artisan boutiques can be found on the nearby Rue de l’Apport, Place des Merciers, and Place des Cordeliers.

CANCALE

86 km (54 mi) northwest of Rennes via N137 and D210.

Nothing says Brittany like seafood and nothing says seafood like this village, one of the most picturesque fishing village in Brittany. Head here using