Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [59]
EXPLORING NANTES
Nantes’s 15th-century château is still in relatively good shape, despite having lost an entire tower during a gunpowder explosion in 1800. The 15th-century cathedral floats heavenward as well. Its white stones, immense height, and airy interior make it one of France’s best. Across the broad boulevard, Cours des 50-Otages, is the 19th-century city. The unlucky Ile Feydeau, surrounded and bisected by highways, still preserves the tottering 18th-century mansion built with wealth from Nantes’s huge slave trade. The Loire River flows along the southern edge of the Vieille Ville, making Nantes officially part of the Loire region, although historically it belongs to Brittany. In town you can see many references to Anne de Bretagne, the last independent ruler of Brittany, who married the region away to King Charles VIII of France in 1491. Bretons have never quite recovered from the shock.
TOP ATTRACTIONS IN NANTES
Château des Ducs de Bretagne.
Built by the dukes of Brittany, who had no doubt that Nantes belonged in their domain, this château is a massive, well-preserved 15th-century fortress with a moat. François II, the duke responsible for building most of it, led a hedonistic life here, surrounded by ministers, chamberlains, and an army of servants. Numerous monarchs later stayed in the castle, where in 1598 Henri IV signed the famous Edict of Nantes advocating religious tolerance. The castle reopened in February 2007 after extensive renovations. | 4 pl. Marc-Elder | 44000 | 02–51–17–49–00 | www.chateau-nantes.fr | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Cathédrale St-Pierre–St-Paul.
One of France’s last Gothic cathedrals, this was begun in 1434, well after most other medieval cathedrals had been completed. The facade is ponderous and austere, in contrast to the light, wide, limestone interior, whose vaults rise higher (120 feet) than those of Notre-Dame in Paris. | Pl. St-Pierre | 44000 | 02–40–47–84–64 | Free | Crypt Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–6, Sun. 2–6:30.
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts).
Designed by Clément-Marie Josso, this noted museum was opened in 1900. Inside, skylights cast their glow over a fine array of paintings, extending from the Renaissance period onward, including works by Jacopo Tintoretto, Georges de La Tour, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, and Gustave Courbet. To go from the sublime to the ridiculous, look for the famous late-19th-century painting of a gorilla running amuck with a maiden. | 10 rue Georges-Clemenceau | 44000 | 02–51–17–45–00 | €3.50 | Mon., Wed., Fri., and weekends 10–6, Thurs. 10–8.
Musée Thomas-Dobrée.
Set across the way from the medieval Manoir de la Touche, this mansion was originally built by arts connoisseur Thomas Dobrée in the 19th century. On the mock-Romanesque facade he had chiseled the old Breton saying,ANN DIANAF A ROG AC’HANOUN (“The Unknown devours me”), and his vast collection offers proof, as it ranges from old-master paintings to tapestries, from medieval manuscripts to Gothic goldwork, including the coffret reliquary of the heart of Anne de Bretagne; one room is devoted to the Revolutionary War in Vendée. | 18 rue Voltaire | 44000 | 02–40–71–03–50 | €3 | Tues.–Sun. 2:30–5:30.
WORTH NOTING IN NANTES
Grand Théâtre.
Down the block from the Passage Pommeraye, this noted town landmark was built in 1783. | Pl. Graslin | 44000.
Manoir de la Touche.
This 15th-century house was once the abode of the bishops of Nantes. | Rue Voltaire | 44000.
Passage de la Pommeraye.
Erected in 1843, this is an elegant shopping gallery in the 19th-century part of town. | Rue Crébillon | 44000.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN NANTES
La Cigale.
$$ | FRENCH | Miniature palm trees, gleaming woodwork, colorful enamel tiles, and painted ceilings have led to the official recognition of La Cigale brasserie (built in 1895) as a monument historique. You can savor its Belle Époque blandishments without spending a fortune—the prix-fixe lunch menus are a good value. But the banks of fresh oysters and well-stacked dessert cart may tempt you to order à la carte. | 4 pl. Graslin | 44000 | 02