Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [63]
The Cathedral Cities. To the west of Champagne lies a region where the popping of Champagne corks is only a distant murmur, and not just because Reims is 160 km (100 mi) away. For here are some of the most gargantuan Gothic hulks of architectural harmony: the cathedrals of Beauvais, Amiens, Laon, and Soissons. Beauvais is positively dizzying from within: with the highest choir in France, you nearly keel over craning your neck back. Laon is still a town with a contemplative air. Amiens is the most colossal church in the land, in places fantastically ornate, while Soissons shows Gothic at its most restrained.
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Visitor Information | Traveling “Les Routes de Champagne” | Transportation Basics | Finding a Place to Stay | Eating Well
VISITOR INFORMATION
If traveling extensively by public transportation, be sure to load up on information (“Guide Régional des Transports” schedules, the best taxi-for-call companies, etc.) upon arriving at the ticket counter or help desk of the bigger train and bus stations in the area, such as Reims and Amiens.
In addition to the main tourist offices in these two cities, other smaller towns have their own tourist bureaux.
The Marne Regional Tourist Office (13 bis, rue Carnot, | Châlons-en-Champagne | 51006 | 03–26–68–37–52 | www.tourisme-en-champagne.com) is a mine of information about the Champagne region.
Two main Web sites for the region (www.tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com, www.picardietourisme.com) are packed with data and suggestions for Champagne-bound travelers.
Amiens Tourist Office (6 bis, rue Dusevel, | Amiens | 80000 | 03–22–71–60–50 | www.visit-amiens.com).
Reims Tourist Office (2 rue Guillaume-de-Machault, | Reims | 51100 | 03–26–77–45–25 | www.reims-tourisme.com).
TRAVELING “LES ROUTES DE CHAMPAGNE”
Threading the triangle between Reims, Épernay, and Château-Thierry are the famous Routes Touristique de Champagne (Champagne Roads), which divvy up the region into four fabulous itineraries. These follow the main four côtes of the Champagne vineyards. Northwest of Reims (use the Tinqueux exit) is the Massif de Saint-Thierry—a vineyard-rich region once hallowed by kings. Heading south of Reims to Épernay, travel west along the Vallée de la Marne through the Hauteurs d’Épernay, traveling west on the right bank of the river and east on the left. To the east of Épernay lies the most beautiful stretch of Champagne Country: the Montagne de Reims. To the south of Épernay is the Côte de Blancs, the “cradle of Chardonnay.” More than 80 producers of Champagne are scattered along these roads, and you can guarantee a better reception if you call the ones you’d like to visit in advance.
The two main centers to the Champagne Wine Road are Reims and Épernay, which are about 64 km (40 mi) apart if you work your way through the wine villages that dot the slopes of the Montagne de Reims. Start in Reims, with its host of major Champagne houses, then go south on N51 and east on D26 through pretty Rilly-la-Montagne, Mailly-Champagne, and Verzy, where you can visit local producers Étienne and Anne-Laure Lefevre at 30 rue de Villers (03–26–97–96–99 | www.champagne-etienne-lefevre.com). Continue south to Ambonnay, then track back west to Bouzy, Ay, and Hautvillers—where Dom Pérignon is buried in the village church—before crossing the Marne River to Épernay, whose main street is home to several producers. From Épernay, spear south along the Côte de Blanc to Vertus, 19 km (12 mi) away, where Pierre and Sophie Lamandier will sell and tell you all about their organic bio-Champagne at 19 avenue du General-de-Gaulle (03–26–52–13–24 | www.larmandier.fr). If you’re headed back to Paris, take D1 from Épernay west along the banks of the Marne to Château-Thierry 50 km (30 mi) away. The steep-climbing