Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [67]
Hôtel Le Vergeur Museum.
One of the best examples of late medieval and early Renaissance architecture in Reims, this was built during the 13th century. Originally overlooking the historic linen and wheat market in the center of town, the noble townhouse changed hands between aristocrats, Champagne traders, and, finally, Hugues Kraft in 1910, a man whose sole passion was preserving the city’s historic buildings. It was completely restored after the WWI bombings and today houses an impressive collection of historical prints, paintings, and furnishings from the region, as well as an original, complete series of 15th-century Albert Dürer prints of the “Apocalypse” and “Large Passion.”|36 pl. du Forum | 51100 | 03–26–47–20–75 | www.museelevergeur.com | €3.90 | June–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon.
Musée de la Reddition (Museum of the Surrender).
Near the train station, this museum—also known as the Salle du 8-Mai-1945 or the “little red school house”—is a well-preserved map-covered room used by General Eisenhower as Allied headquarters at the end of World War II. It was here that General Alfred Jodl signed the German surrender at 2:41 AM on May 7, 1945. Fighting officially ceased at midnight the next day. The museum also presents a collection of local photos, documents, uniforms, and artifacts recounting the fighting, occupation, and liberation of Reims. Guided tours begin with a short documentary film in English and French. | 12 rue Franklin-Roosevelt | 51100 | 03–26–47–84–19 | €3 | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.
Palais du Tau.
Formerly the Archbishop’s Palace (alongside the cathedral), this museum now houses an impressive display of tapestries and coronation robes, as well as several statues rescued from the cathedral facade before they fell off. The second-floor views of the cathedral are terrific. | 2 pl. du Cardinal-Luçon | 51100 | 03–26–47–81–79 | www.palais-du-tau.fr | €7 | May–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6:30; Sept.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5:30.
HIKING CHAMPAGNE: LIFT YOUR SPIRITS!
There’s nothing like getting out into Mother Nature to send the spirits soaring and, as it turns out, the region of Champagne is custom-made for easy and scenic hiking.
Just south of Reims rises the Montagne de Reims, a vast forested plateau on whose slopes grow the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes used to make Champagne.
Several sentiers de Grandes Randonnées (long hiking trails; also known as GRs) run across the top of the plateau, burrowing through dense forest and looping around the edges.
For example, the GR141 and the GR14 form a loop more than 50 km (30 mi) long around the plateau’s eastern half, passing by several train stations en route.
You can access some of these hiking trails from the Rilly-la-Montagne, Avenay, and Ay stops on the Reims-Épernay rail line.
If you’re a serious hiker, make for the Ardennes region, which lies just to the northeast of Champagne.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN REIMS
Le Bocal.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Freshness is guaranteed: this tiny treasure is hidden at the back of a fishmonger’s shop across from the old food court, les Halles du Boulingrin. Everything is just off the boat, but most of the dozen lucky diners automatically go with the catch of the day. Tempting as that is no one should pass up the divine cooked oysters in season. Tables in this bright, contemporary room are in demand so it is best to reserve. | 27 rue de Mars | 51100 | 03–26–47–02–51 | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Wed.
Le Millénaire.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Appearances deceive at this sturdy traditional town house just off Place Royale, a few feet from the cathedral, “au coeur de Reims”: inside, it has an Art Deco feel with plush red carpets and sleek wooden chairs, while the designer lighting and contemporary art on the pale yellow walls ooze as much chic as does trim hostess Corinne Laplaige. Her husband Laurent’s own decorative artistry finds an outlet in colorful food presentations on square glass plates, with stunning specialties ranging from sardines