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Over at flea and brocante (collectibles) markets, food plays second fiddle. With any luck, you’ll find a little 18th-century engraving that makes your heart go trottinant.

BISTROS AND BRASSERIES

The choice of restaurants in France is a feast in itself. Of course, at least once during your trip you’ll want to indulge in a luxurious meal at a great haute-cuisine restaurant—but there’s no need to get knee-deep in white truffles at Paris’s Alain Ducasse to savor the France the French eat. For you can discover the most delicious French-Women-Don’t-Get-Fat food with a quick visit to a city neighborhood bistro.

History tells us that bistros served the world’s first fast food—after the fall of Napoléon, the Russian soldiers who occupied Paris were known to cry bistro (“quickly” in Russian) when ordering.

Here, at zinc-top tables, you’ll find the great delights of cuisine traditionelle, like grand-mère’s lamb with white beans.

Today the bistro boom has meant that many are designer-decorated and packed with trendsetters.

If you’re lucky, the food will be as witty and colorful as the clientele.

Brasseries, with few exceptions, remain unchanged—great bustling places with white-aproned waiters and hearty, mainly Alsatian, food, such as pork-based dishes, choucroute (sauerkraut), and beer (“brasserie” also means brewery).

Bon appétit!

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If your France fantasy involves staying in a historic hotel with the smell of fresh-baked croissants gently rousing you in the morning, here’s some good news: you need not be Ritz-rich to realize it. Throughout the country, you’ll find stylish lodging options—from charming hotels and intimate B&Bs to regal apartments and grand country houses—in all price ranges.

HOTELS

Rates are always by room, not per person. Sometimes a hotel in a certain price category will have a few less-expensive rooms; it’s worth asking about. In the off-season—usually November to Easter (except for southern France)—tariffs may be lower. Always inquire about promotional specials and weekend deals. Rates must be posted in all rooms, with extra charges clearly indicated.

Hotel rooms have telephones, television, and private bath unless otherwise noted. When making your reservation, state your preference for shower (douche) or tub (baignoire)—the latter always costs more. Also when booking, ask for a grand lit if you want a double bed.

APARTMENT AND HOUSE RENTALS

If you want more spacious accommodations with cooking facilities, consider a furnished rental. These can save you money, especially if you’re traveling with a group.

Renting a gîte rural—furnished house in the country—for a week or month can also save you money. Gîtes are nearly always maintained by on-site owners, who greet you on your arrival and provide information on groceries, doctors, and nearby attractions.

The national rental network, the Fédération Nationale des Gîtes de France, rents all types of accommodations rated by ears of corn (from one to four) based on comfort and quality criteria.

You can find listings for fabulous renovated farmhouses with swimming pools or simple cottages in the heart of wine country. Besides country houses, Gîtes de France has listings for B&Bs, lodges, hostels, and campsites.

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

Chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts) range from simple lodgings with breakfast in a humble home to beautiful rooms in a château with gourmet food. Chambres d’hôtes are most common in rural France, though they are becoming more popular in Paris and other major cities.

Check with local tourist offices or private reservation agencies like Hôtes Qualité Paris. Often table d’hôte dinners (meals cooked by and eaten with the owners) can be arranged for a nominal fee.

Note that your hosts at B&Bs, unlike those at hotels, are more likely to speak only French.

HOSTELS

Hostels offer bare-bones lodging at low, low prices—often