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top picks

GIFT IDEAS

Perfume and scented candles from Guerlain, L’Artisan Parfumeur or Fragonard.

Fine food and wine from Fauchon, À l’Olivier, Hédiard, La Maison du Miel or Boutique Maille.

Beautiful stationery from Mélodies Graphiques (opposite) or L’Agenda Modern (opposite).

Tea from Le Palais des Thés or Mariage Frères.

A music box from Anna Joliet, African blankets from CSAO Boutique & Gallery (opposite), something for the kitchen from E Dehillerin, a hammock from La Maison du Hamac (left) or a kite from La Maison du Cerf-Volant.

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L’OURS DU MARAIS Map Toys

01 42 77 60 43; www.oursdumarais.com; 18 rue Pavée, 4e; 11.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 2-7.30pm Sun; St-Paul

‘The Marais Bear’ doesn’t focus on Smoky or Yogi but on Teddy – there are more versions of the popular cuddly toy in this crowded little boutique than you could fill a den with.

PUZZLES MICHÈLE WILSON Map Toys

01 47 00 12 27; www.pmw.fr; 39 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 11e; 10am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat; St-Ambroise

Puzzleurs and puzzleuses will love the selection of hand-cut wooden jigsaw puzzles available in this shop. Ranging in size (and degree of difficulty) from 80 to 900 pieces, the puzzles depict for the most part major works of art – everything from Delacroix and Millet to the impressionists. The ones of medieval stained glass and 18th-century fans are particularly fine. There’s also a 15e branch (Map; 01 45 75 35 28; 97 av Émile Zola, 15e; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat; Charles Michels)

TUMBLEWEED Map Toys

01 42 78 06 10; www.tumbleweedparis.com; 19 rue de Turenne, 4e; 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun; St-Paul or Chemin Vert

This gorgeous little shop, which specialises in l’artisanat d’art ludique (crafts of the playing art), stocks wonderful handmade wooden toys, some of which look too nice to play with. The brain teasers and puzzles for adults are exquisitely made; we especially love the Japanese ‘spin’ and ‘secret’ boxes that defy entry.

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top picks

BOOKSHOPS

Abbey Bookshop (right)

Librairie Ulysse (below)

Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore

Shakespeare & Company (right)

Tea & Tattered Pages

Village Voice

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VERT D’ABSINTHE Map Drink

01 42 71 69 73; 11 rue d’Ormesson, 4e; noon-7pm Tue-Sat; St-Paul

Fans of the fée verte (green fairy), as absinthe was known during the Belle Époque, will think they’ve died and gone to heaven here. Not only can you buy bottles of the best-quality hooch here but all the paraphernalia as well: glasses, water jogs and tiny spoons for the all-important sugar cube.

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THE ISLANDS

LIBRAIRIE ULYSSE Map Books

01 43 25 17 35; www.ulysse.fr; 26 rue St-Louis en l’Île, 4e; 2-8pm Tue-Fri; Pont Marie

A delightful shop full of travel guides, maps and sage advice from well-travelled staff. The 20,000 back issues of National Geographic are not to be sniffed at.

LA PETITE SCIERIE Map Food

01 55 42 14 88; 60 rue St-Louis en l’Île, 4e; 11am-8pm; Pont Marie

This little hole-in-the-wall sells every permutation of duck edibles with the emphasis – naturellement – on foie gras. The products come direct from the farm with no intermediary involved, so you can be assured of the highest quality.

SOBRAL Map Jewellery

01 43 25 17 35; 26 rue St-Louis en l’Île, 4e; 11am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; Pont Marie

Brighten up your life with a bangle, pendant, pair of earrings or other costume jewellery pieces made from recycled resin by Brazilian jeweller, Carlos Sobral. Yes, he makes toilet seats and Eiffel Towers, too.

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LATIN QUARTER & JARDIN DES PLANTES

ABBEY BOOKSHOP Map Books

01 46 33 16 24; www.abbeybookshop.net; 29 rue de la Parcheminerie, 5e; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; Cluny-La Sorbonne

This mellow, Canadian-owned bookshop is known for its free tea and coffee (sweetened with maple syrup) sipped over new and secondhand books, fiction and nonfiction.

LIBRAIRIE EYROLLES Map Books

01 44 41 11 72; www.eyrolles.com, in French; 61 blvd St-Germain, 5e; 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat;