Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [127]
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PATRICIA WELLS – ONLY THE BEST
The only American considered to have truly captured the soul of French cuisine, writer, cookery teacher and author of The Food Lover’s Guide to Paris Patricia Wells (www.patriciawells.com) has lived, cooked and shopped in Paris since 1980. ‘Only the best’ is the label on the fresh fish, meat, cheese, breads and other market produce that guests at her St-Germain des Prés cooking studio use in class. So just where does she shop? Nicola Williams finds out.
What is it that makes Paris so wonderful for culinary shopping? The tradition, the quality, the quantity, the atmosphere and physical beauty!
Where do you buy your weekly groceries? All over: The Sunday organic market (blvd Raspail, 7e; Rennes) at Rennes; Poilâne for bread; Quatrehommes for cheese; Poissonnerie du Bac (69 rue du Bac, 7e; Rue du Bac) for fish; also the President Wilson market.
And for that extra-special gourmet meal? I shop regularly at Le Bon Marché’s La Grande Épicerie (opposite) because it is right down the street from me. But for special meals I always order things in advance and go from shop to shop. That is the fun of Paris and of France.
Favourite markets & and top tips? I love the dried fruits and nuts at the Sunday Rennes market, all the fish stands at the President Wilson market, the Planet Fruits and Daguerre Marée stands at the Rue Poncelet market. If you live in Paris, become a client fidèle so they reach in the back and give you the best stuff. If you only go once in a while, just smile and be friendly.
Your top specialist addresses? Poilâne and Kayser (bread; Click here); Maison du Chocolat (19 rue de Sèvres, 6e) and Pierre Hermé (chocolate and cakes; Click here); La Dernière Goutte (wine; Click here).
A creative idea for a culinary souvenir from Paris? Fragonard, the perfume maker, has a great shop on blvd St-Germain. They have a changing litany of great things for the home, such as fabulous vases with an Eiffel Tower theme, lovely embroidered napkins with a fish or vegetable theme, great little spoons with a cake or pastry theme. Nothing is very expensive and the offerings change every few months, so you have to pounce when you find something you love. The gift wrapping in gorgeous Fragonard bags is worth it alone!
Interviewed by Nicola Williams
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If the big fashion houses reign mainly on the other side of the Champs-Élysées, the class and couture continues along in the 8e rue du Faubourg St-Honoré and its eastern extension, rue St-Honoré in the 1e, where designer shops – and designer shoppers – abound. This area is also home to the grand gourmet food stores of place de la Madeleine and the luxury jewellery of place Vendôme.
ESPACE IGN Map Books
01 43 98 80 00; www.ign.fr; 107 rue La Boétie, 8e; noon-6.30pm Mon, 11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat; Franklin D Roosevelt
This is the place to find a full selection of Institut Géographique National (IGN) maps, as well as atlases, globes, walking maps, city plans, compasses, satellite images, historic maps and guidebooks.
ERES Map Clothing & Accessories
01 47 42 28 82; www.eres.fr; 2 rue Tronchet, 8e; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; Madeleine
You will pay an arm and a leg for a swimsuit here, but anyone who has despaired at buying bathers in the past will understand why these have become a must-have item for those in the know. The stunning swimmers are cut to suit all shapes and sizes, with bikini tops and bottoms sold separately. It also stocks magnificent lingerie.
GUERLAIN Map Cosmetics & Perfume
01 45 62 52 57; www.guerlain.com; 68 av des Champs-Élysées, 8e; 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun; Franklin D Roosevelt
Guerlain is Paris’ most famous parfumerie, and its shop, dating from 1912, is one of the most beautiful in the city. With its