Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [142]
How Much?
When it comes to eating out in Paris, the question ‘How much?’ is like asking ‘How long is a piece of string?’ It all depends… A three-course dinner menu (fixed-price meal with two or three courses) can be had for as little as €12 at budget places, and one-plate plats du jour (daily specials) at lunch are sometimes available for under €10. On the other hand, three courses for lunch at Le Grand Véfour Click here overlooking the Jardin du Palais Royal will set you back €88, and dinner is more than three times that amount.
In general, however, you should be able to enjoy a substantial sit-down lunch for under around €12/€20 at a budget/medium-priced restaurant and an excellent three-course dinner with wine for around €35.
Lower-priced good-value menus that are available at lunch only (and usually just on weekdays) are noted as such throughout the chapter. Generally, higher-priced menus are available at dinner.
Booking Tables
It is always advisable to book in advance at midrange restaurants and absolutely mandatory at top-end ones. If you do arrive at a restaurant without a reservation, you will be treated more seriously if you state the number of couverts (covers) required upon entry rather than referring to the number of places. If you’re a party of two, ask Avez-vous deux couverts?
Paying the Bill & Tipping
With the exception of cafeterias, service restaurants and the like, most eateries in Paris take credit cards, though there is usually a minimum charge of €20. A hand-held machine used to verify your credit card and payment is brought to the table, where the transaction takes place; if your card has a chip (puce in French) you will almost surely require a PIN number. Always check your bill before paying: small ‘mistakes’ do happen from time to time in Paris.
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CHEAP EATS
Along with the less-expensive places listed at the end of each neighbourhood in this chapter, French chain and university restaurants offer excellent value for those counting their euros.
Fast-Food & Chain Restaurants
American fast-food chains have busy branches all over Paris, as does the local hamburger chain Quick (www.quick.fr in French). In addition, a number of local chain restaurants have outlets around Paris with standard menus. They are definitely a cut above fast-food outlets and can be good value in areas such as the av des Champs-Élysées, where restaurants tend to be overpriced.
Bistro Romain (www.bistroromain.fr in French; starters €4.90-17.10, pasta €13.30-16.40, mains €14.30-19.40, menu €12.50-33.60; 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) This ever-popular Italian-ish bistro-restaurant chain, which has some 14 branches in Paris proper and another nine in the banlieues (suburbs), is a surprisingly upmarket place for its price category, and service is always pleasant and efficient. The Champs-Élysées branch (Map; 01 43 59 93 31; 122 av des Champs-Élysées, 8e; George V), one of a pair along the city’s most famous thoroughfare, is a stone’s throw from place Charles de Gaulle and the Arc de Triomphe.
Buffalo Grill (www.buffalo-grill.fr; starters €4.20-10, mains €9.70-20.20, menu from €9.10; 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) This successful chain has nine branches in Paris, including the Gare du Nord branch (Map; 01 40 16 47 81; 9 blvd de Denain, 10e; Gare du Nord). Not surprisingly, the emphasis here is on grills and steak – everything from Canadian bison burgers (€10.50) to a huge entrecôte cowboy steak (€17.60).
Hippopotamus (www.hippopotamus.fr in French; starters €4.80-9.90, mains €11.50-24.50, menu €15.50-29.50; 11.45am-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) This spreading chain, which has 20 branches in Paris proper, specialises in solid, steak-based meals. Three of the outlets here stay open to 5am daily, including Opéra branch (Map; 01 47 42 75 70; 1 blvd des Capucines, 2e; Opéra).
Léon de Bruxelles (www.leon-de-bruxelles.com in French; starters €5.30-9.90, mains €10.50-16, menu €11.20-15.90; 11.45am-11pm) At Léon the focus is on one thing and one thing only: moules (mussels).