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such as choucroute (sauerkraut with assorted meats; €18 to €20), and seafood dishes (€24.50 to €49). There’s a budget menu of €23.90 available after 11pm. Ask for a seat downstairs, under the coupole (stained-glass dome); it’s the prettiest part of the restaurant. Just opposite is Le Petit Bofinger ( 01 42 72 05 23; 6 rue de la Bastille, 4e; starters €7.60-15.70, mains €15.30-26, menus with wine €20.50 & €29; lunch & dinner to 12.30am daily; Bastille), the brasserie’s less brash (and cheaper) little sister.

LE DÔME BASTILLE Map French, Seafood €€€

01 48 04 88 44; 2 rue de la Bastille, 4e; starters €9.50-15, mains €21-31; lunch & dinner to 11pm; Bastille

This lovely restaurant, little sister to the more established Dôme in Montparnasse and awash in pale yellows, specialises in superbly prepared fish and seafood dishes. The blackboard menu changes daily. Wines are a uniform (and affordable) €22.50 per bottle.

LE TEMPS AU TEMPS Map French €€€

01 43 79 63 40; 3 rue Paul Bert, 11e; menu €30; lunch & dinner to 10.30pm Tue-Sat; Faidherbe Chaligny

This tiny little place with about 10 tables has a very exciting three-course menu that changes daily; some of the dishes have been inspired by the cuisine récréative (entertaining cuisine) of the great Catalan chef Ferran Adria. Come here for lunch; you’re much more likely to get a seat.

LE REPAIRE DE CARTOUCHE Map French €€€

01 47 00 25 86; 8 blvd des Filles du Calvaire & 99 rue Amelot, 11e; starters €10-14, mains €18-30, menus €14 & €26 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to 11pm Tue-Sat; St-Sébastien Froissart

With entrances at both front and back, ‘Cartouche’s Den’ – a reference to the 18th-century Parisian ‘Robin Hood’ Louis-Dominique Cartouche – looks to the past and the future. It’s an old-fashioned place that takes a very modern, innovative approach to French food under the direction of Norman chef Rodolphe Paquin. As its name implies and the rifle on the wall underscores, it focuses on meat and game (poached?) though there are some excellent fish and shellfish dishes on the menu.

INAMORATI CAFFÈ Map Italian €€€

01 48 04 88 28; 57 rue Charlot, 3e; mains €16-30, menus €15 (lunch only), €25 & with wine €30; lunch & dinner to midnight daily; Temple or République

This long and narrow storefront space filled with tables covered in checked tablecloths attracts a loyal and local clientele who love the authentic (and ample) dishes, prepared by partners Salvatore and Rocco. The mammoth salads and risotto are excellent choices but we usually go for something in a marmite (cooking pot), be it homemade cheese-stuffed ravioli with meatballs or the fisherman’s stew of shellfish.

LES GRANDES MARCHES Map French, Brasserie €€€

01 43 43 90 32; 6 place de la Bastille, 12e; starters €8.50-13, mains €15-29; noon-midnight; Bastille

This futuristic modern brasserie next to the ‘Great Steps’ of the Opéra Bastille was designed by Elisabeth and Christian Portzamparc for the Flo group. The result has been disappointing – both in décor and food served – but it has a convenient (and much coveted) location. If you do find yourself here on Sunday, check out the jazz brunch (€24) from noon to 4pm. The bar stays open till 4am daily.

UNICO Map Argentian €€€

01 43 67 68 08; www.resto-unico.com, in French; 15 rue Paul Bert, 11e; starters €6.50-11, mains €20-26, menu €19 (lunch only), lunch & dinner to 11pm Tue-Sat; Faidherbe Chaligny

This very trendy, very orange Argentine parillada (steakhouse) has taken over an old butcher and put a modern (well, sort of 1970s, but it works) spin on it. This place is all about meat – especially the barbecued entrecôte (rib steak) with chunky frites (chips). Good wine selection.

MA BOURGOGNE Map French, Bistro €€€

01 42 78 44 64; 19 place des Vosges, 4e; starters €8-20, mains €18-26, menu €32; noon-1am daily; St-Paul

With its terrace under the arcades of the place des Vosges looking onto what is arguably the most beautiful square in Paris, this is a wonderful place to have lunch or just a drink. The plats du jour are good value at €14 to €25 when you consider the location.