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Paris. What you really want to come here for is a genuine pot-au-feu, a stockpot of beef, aromatic root vegetables and herbs stewed together, with the stock served as an entree and the meat and vegetables as the main course. Other offerings – the chef’s terrine, leeks à la vinaigrette, hachis Parmentier (chopped beef with potatoes), crème caramel, tarte Tatin or chocolate mousse, and the complimentary cornichons at the start – are equally traditional fare but less noteworthy. You drink from an open bottle of wine and pay for what you’ve consumed. No reservations accepted.

AU GÉNÉRAL LA FAYETTE Map French, Brasserie €€

01 47 70 59 08; 52 rue La Fayette, 9e; starters €5.20-9.50, mains €16-20; 10am-4am daily; Le Peletier

With its all-day menu, archetypal belle époque décor and special beers on offer, this is an excellent stop if you’re hungry outside normal restaurant hours. Stick to the classics, though, like the hearty onion soup (€6.50) and crisp confit de canard (preserved duck leg cooked very slowly in its own fat; €16) with tasty potatoes, and you can’t go wrong. For something lighter go for one of the generous grandes salades (€4.50 to €13.50).

LE Y Map Greek €€

01 42 68 08 51; 24 rue Godot de Mauroy, 9e; menu €13.50 (lunch only) & €16; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner to midnight Tue-Sat; Havre Caumartin

Don’t expect very much from the Y (pronounced ‘ee grec’ in French) except traditional, family-style Greek cooking and a warm welcome. The lunch menu is available until 8pm. The mezzanine area is a pleasant place to sit and there are occasional art and photographic exhibits here.

NOUVEAU PARIS-DAKAR Map African, Senegalese €€

01 42 46 12 30; 11 rue de Montyon, 9e; starters €6.90, mains €12.50-16, menus €9.90 (lunch only), €24 & €32; lunch Mon-Thu, Sat & Sun, dinner to 1am daily; Grands Boulevards

This is a little bit of Senegal in Paris, with Mamadou still reigning as the ‘King of Dakar’ despite the new location. Specialities here include yassa (chicken or fish marinated in lime juice and onion sauce; €12.50) and mafé Cap Vert (lamb in peanut sauce; €12.50). There’s live African music most nights.

CHEZ HAYNES Map American, Southern €€

01 48 78 40 63; 3 rue Clauzel, 9e; starters €7, mains €8-16; dinner to midnight Tue-Sat; St-Georges

A legendary, funky hang-out set up by an African American ex-GI in 1947, Haynes dishes up such soul food as shrimp gumbo, fried chicken, barbecued ribs and cornbread. There’s usually a crowd for the blues, dance and performance art sessions on Fridays and Saturdays from 8.30pm or 9pm (€5) and jamming from 11pm to midnight.

CHARTIER Map French, Bistro €€

01 47 70 86 29; www.restaurant-chartier.com; 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9e; starters €2.20-12.40, mains €6.50-16, menu with wine €20; lunch & dinner to 10pm daily; Grands Boulevards

Chartier, which started life as a bouillon, or soup kitchen, in 1896, is a real gem that is justifiably famous for its 330-seat belle époque dining room. With a 50cL pitchet (pitcher) of wine for €3.60, you should spend no more than €15/20 for two/three courses per person. The menu changes (well, alters) daily, but don’t expect gourmet. Reservations are not accepted so count on joining a queue at busy times. Single diners will have to share a table.

KASTOORI Map Indian, Pakistani €€

01 44 53 06 10; 4 place Gustave Toudouze, 9e; starters €3-6, mains €9-12; menus €8 (lunch only), €10 & €15; lunch & dinner to 11.30pm; St-Georges

This eatery just a stone’s throw from place Pigalle is a delight in summer, with its large terrace looking onto a quiet, leafy square. The excellent value set menus include three generous courses; if you just want one dish go for the excellent vegetable biryani.

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top picks

BUDGET FRENCH

Au Trou Normand

Chartier (above)

Le Chaland

Le Trumilou

L’Encrier

Robert et Louise

Chez Gladines

Bar à Soupe et Quenelles Giarudet

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SELF-CATERING

Conveniently located is the Franprix Rodier (Map; 52 rue Rodier, 9e; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; St-Georges or Cadet), south of square