Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [193]
Interviewed by Steve Fallon
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Just far enough off the Montmartre tourist track to keep the tourist hordes away, this local favourite overlooking a stylish and grassy square offers contemporary French cuisine with Mediterranean (and especially Provençale) influences. The lunch menus are particularly good value.
ISAAN Map Thai €€
01 42 80 09 72; 1 rue de Calais, 9e; starters €5-8, mains €10-19; menus €10.90 (lunch only), €14.90 & €16.90; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 11pm daily; Blanche
The name of this friendly little eatery just south of Montmartre refers to Thailand’s Northeast, which produces the spiciest dishes in the realm. While we can’t say the dishes blew our tops off, they were certainly authentic. Go for the basics: chicken green curry and pat tai noodles.
LE MAQUIS Map French €€
01 42 59 76 07; 69 rue Caulaincourt, 18e; starters €10, mains €18, menus €15 (lunch only), €22 & €33; lunch & dinner to 10pm Tue-Sat; Lamarck Caulaincourt
If you’re in Montmartre and despairing over the choice of eateries (overpriced with poor service), give the Butte the boot and head the short distance north to rue Caulaincourt and this typical bistro with cuisine traditionelle (traditional cooking). The name refers to the neighbourhood and not the French Resistance or the herbal underbrush of Corsica. The set lunch includes a 25cL pichet of wine.
LE REFUGE DES FONDUS Map French, Savoie €€
01 42 55 22 65; www.lerefugedesfondus.com, in French; 17 rue des Trois Frères, 18e; menu €17; dinner to 2am daily; Abbesses or Anvers
This odd place has been a Montmartre favourite for nigh on four decades. The single menu provides an aperitif, hors d’oeuvre, red wine (or beer or soft drink) in a biberon (baby bottle) and a good quantity of either fondue savoyarde (melted cheese) or fondue bourguignonne (meat fondue). The last sitting is at midnight.
LE MONO Map African, Togolese €€
01 46 06 99 20; 40 rue Véron, 18e; starters €5-15, mains €9-17; dinner to 1am Thu-Tue; Abbesses or Blanche
Le Mono, run by a cheery Togolese family, offers West African specialities, including lélé (flat, steamed cakes of white beans and shrimp; €6.50), azidessi (beef or chicken with peanut sauce; €11), gbekui (goulash with spinach, onions, beef, fish and shrimp; €13) and djenkoumé (grilled chicken with semolina noodles; €12). The rum-based punches are an excellent prelude.
AU PETIT BUDAPEST Map Hungarian €€
01 46 06 10 34; 96 rue des Martyrs, 18e; starters €7.50-9.50, mains €14.50-16.50, menu €18.50; dinner to midnight Mon-Sat; Abbesses
With old etchings and the requisite Gypsy music, this little eatery does a reasonable job of recreating the atmosphere of a late-19th-century Hungarian csárda (traditional inn). From the chicken paprika to the crepe à la Hortobagy (crepe with meat and crème fraîche; €9.50), these are refined versions of popular Hungarian dishes. For dessert try the ever-rich Gundel palacsinta (flambéed pancake with chocolate and nuts).
LA MAISON ROSE Map French €€
01 42 57 66 75; 2 rue de l’Abreuvoir, 18e; starters €7.20-13, mains €14.50-16.50, menu €16.50; lunch & dinner to 10.30pm daily Mar-Oct, lunch Thu-Mon, dinner to 9pm Mon, Thu-Sun Nov-Feb; Lamarck Caulaincourt
Looking for the quintessential Montmartre bistro in a house that was the subject of a lithograph by Maurice Utrillo? Head for the tiny ‘Pink House’ located just north of the Place du Tertre. It’s not so much about food here but rather location, location, location.
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LE RELAIS GASCON Map French, Southwest €€
01 42 58 58 22; 6 rue des Abbesses, 18e; starters €6-11, mains €10.50-16, menus €8 (lunch only), €15 & €23.50; lunch & dinner to midnight daily; Abbesses
Situated just a short stroll from the place des Abbesses, the Relais