Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [198]
ANGÉLINA Map Tea Room
01 42 60 82 00; 226 rue de Rivoli, 1er; 9am-5pm; Tuileries
Take a break from the long trek along the Tuileries gardens and line up for a table at Angélina, along with the lunching ladies, their posturing poodles and half the students from Waseda University. This beautiful, high-ceilinged tearoom has exquisite furnishings, mirrored walls and fabulous fluffy cakes. More importantly, it serves the best and most wonderfully sickening ‘African’ hot chocolate in the history of time (€6.20), served with a pot of whipped cream. It’s a positive meal replacement and is said to be the best hot chocolate in Paris.
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top picks
BAR-HOPPING STREETS
Rue Princesse & rue des Canettes, 6e Student, sports ’n’ tapas bars and pubs.
Rue Oberkampf & rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e (right) Hip bars, bohemian hang-outs and atmospheric cafés.
Rue de la Roquette, rue Keller & rue de Lappe, 11e (right) Whatever you fancy; Bastille has the lot.
Rue Montmartre, 2e Modern, slick bars and pubs.
Canal St-Martin, 10e Heady summer nights in casual canal-side cafés.
Rue Vieille du Temple & surrounding streets, 4e (right) Marais cocktail of gay bars and chic cafés.
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MARAIS & BASTILLE
The Marais is an excellent spot to go out for drinks. It’s a fascinating mix of gay-friendly (and gay-only) café society and bourgeois arty spots, with an interesting sprinkling of eclectic bars and relatively raucous pubs. Bastille has become increasingly démodé (unfashionable) and even crass over the years, but it invariably draws a crowd, particularly to heaving rue de Lappe. Things get quieter – and better – as you go further up rue de la Roquette and rue de Charonne. Rue Keller has some good cafés and a decent gay bar (Click here).
AU PETIT FER À CHEVAL Map Bar
01 42 72 47 47; 30 rue Vieille du Temple, 4e; 9am-2am; Hôtel de Ville or St-Paul
The original (1903) horseshoe-shaped zinc bar leaves little room for much else, but nobody seems to mind at this genial place. It overflows with friendly regulars enjoying a drink or a sandwich (simple meals are served from noon to 1am). The stainless-steel toilets are straight out of a Flash Gordon film.
BOCA CHICA Map Bar
01 43 57 93 13; 58 rue de Charonne, 11e; 4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Ledru Rollin
This enormous, colourfully decorated place attracts a salsa-lovin’ crowd that isn’t shy about getting up to dance. When the multilevel bar areas and terrace are not hosting salsa soirees you’ll find DJs, flamenco artists and ’80s theme nights. The extensive tapas selection is unsatisfying; stick to the sangria. Happy hour is 4pm to 8pm.
HAVANITA CAFÉ Map Bar
01 43 55 96 42; 11 rue de Lappe, 11e; 5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Bastille
Flashy Cuban style every inch of the way, from the mojitos (Cuban cocktails created with rum, mint and limes) to the main courses to the murals on the walls. This attractive but commercial bar-restaurant has stood the test of time on the increasingly lurid rue de Lappe, thanks to its always reliably festive atmosphere.
IGUANA CAFÉ Map Bar
01 40 21 39 99; 15 rue de la Roquette, 11e; 3pm-5am; Bastille
A contemporary, two-level, backlit café-pub whose clientele is slipping progressively from 30-somethings to early-20s punters. It’s the best of a mediocre bunch and we love the red, black and silver décor on two levels. It has the advantage of closing late – or would that be early? – every night, and there’s a DJ at the weekend, with themed nights twice a month.
LA CHAISE AU PLAFOND Map Bar
01 42 76 03 22; 10 Rue du Trésor, 4e; 9.30am-2am; Hôtel de Ville or St-Paul
‘The Chair on the Ceiling’ is a peaceful, warm place, with wooden tables outside on a terrace giving onto tranquil passage du Trésor. It’s