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Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [214]

By Root 950 0
can get very crowded and hot.

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CLUBBING IN PARIS: BEFORE, AFTER & D’AFTER

Seasoned Parisian clubbers, who tend to have a finely tuned sense of the absurd, split their night into three parts. First, la before – drinks in a bar that has a DJ playing (loads listed in the Drinking chapter, Click here). Second, they head to a club for la soirée, which rarely kicks off before 1am or 2am. When the party continues (or begins) at around 5am and goes until midday, it’s the third in the trio – l’after. Invariably, though, given the lack of any clear-cut distinction between Parisian bars and clubs, the before and after can easily blend into one without any real ‘during’. ‘After d’afters’, meanwhile, kicks off in bars and clubs on Sunday afternoons and evenings, with a mix of strung-out hardcore clubbers pressing on amid less-mad socialites out for a party that doesn’t take place in the middle of the night.

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LE BALAJO Map

01 47 00 07 87; www.balajo.fr, in French; 9 rue de Lappe, 11e; admission €12-18; 10pm-2am Tue & Thu, 9pm-2am Wed, 11pm-5am Fri & Sat, 3-7.30pm Sun; Bastille

A mainstay of Parisian nightlife since 1936, this ancient ballroom is devoted to salsa classes and Latino music during the week. Weekends see DJs spinning a very mixed bag of rock, disco, funk, R ’n’ B and house. While a bit lower-shelf these days, it scores a mention for its historical value and its old-fashioned musette (accordion music) gigs on Sundays: waltz, tango and cha-cha for aficionados of retro tea-dancing.

LE BATOFAR Map

01 53 16 70 30; www.batofar.org, in French; opp 11 quai François Mauriac, 13e; admission free-€15; 9pm-midnight Mon & Tue, to 4am or later Wed-Sun; Quai de la Gare or Bibliothèque

This incongruous, much-loved, red-metal tugboat has a rooftop bar that’s great in summer, while the club underneath provides memorable underwater acoustics between its metal walls and portholes. Le Batofar is known for its edgy, experimental music policy and live performances, mostly electro-oriented but also incorporating hip-hop, new wave, rock, punk or jazz. Sometimes it doesn’t open till 10pm.

LE DIVAN DU MONDE Map

01 42 52 02 46; www.divandumonde.com; 75 rue des Martyrs, 18e; admission free-€12; 7pm-3am Tue-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; Pigalle

Take some cinematographic events, Gypsy gatherings, nouvelles chansons françaises (new French songs). Add in soul/funk fiestas, air-guitar face-offs and rock parties of the Arctic Monkeys/Killers/Libertines persuasion and stir with an Amy Winehouse swizzle stick. You may now be getting some idea of the inventive, open-minded approach at this excellent cross-cultural venue in Pigalle.

LE DJOON Map

01 45 70 83 49; www.djoon.fr, in French; 22-24 blvd Vincent Auriol, 13e; admission €5-20; 7pm-midnight Thu, 11.30pm-5am or 6am Fri & Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun; Quai de la Gare

Something of a new kid on the block in an area becoming increasingly known for its cutting-edge venues, this urbanite, New York–inspired loft club and restaurant is rapidly carving out a name for itself as a super-stylish weekend venue for soul, funk, deep house, garage and disco, courtesy of different visiting DJs. Thursday and Sunday evenings are tamer but still 100% DJ-fed dance. Look for the striking glass-and-steel façade.

LE NOUVEAU CASINO Map

01 43 57 57 40; www.nouveaucasino.net, in French; 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e; club admission €5-10, concerts €15-22; 7.30pm or midnight to 2am or 5am Tue-Sun; Parmentier

This club/concert annexe of the Café Charbon has made a name for itself amid the bars of Oberkampf with its live music concerts (Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday) and top club nights such as Jockey Club at the weekend. Electro, pop, deep House, rock – the programme is eclectic, underground and always up to the minute.

LE REDLIGHT Map

01 42 79 94 53; www.enfer.fr, in French; 34 rue du Départ, 14e; admission €12-20; 11pm or midnight to 5am or 6am Sat & Sun; Montparnasse Bienvenüe

It seems that this underground (literally) venue beneath Tour Montparnasse, fittingly called l’enfer (hell) in a previous life, will

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