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Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [217]

By Root 846 0
the smaller concert halls with real history and charm that most fans favour.

LA CIGALE Map

01 49 25 89 99; www.lacigale.fr; 120 blvd de Rochechouart, 18e; admission €25-60; Anvers or Pigalle

Now classed as a historical monument, this music hall dates from 1887 but was redecorated 100 years later by Philippe Starck. Having welcomed artists from Jean Cocteau to Sheryl Crow, today it prides itself on its avant-garde programme, with rock and jazz concerts by French and international acts.

LA FLÈCHE D’OR off Map

01 44 64 01 02; www.flechedor.fr, in French; 102bis rue de Bagnolet, 20e; admission free; 8pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat, noon-2am Sun; Alexandre Dumas or Gambetta

Just over 1km northeast of place de la Nation, this music bar has a striking setup in a former railway station on the outer edge of central Paris. It attracts a young, arty and alternative crowd; this could very well be Berlin and it’s best known for its DJ nights and concerts. Reggae, house/electro and rock feature; ‘The Golden Arrow’ has a solid reputation for promoting young talent.

LE BATACLAN Map

01 43 14 00 30; www.bataclan.fr, in French; 50 blvd Voltaire, 11e; admission €20-45; Oberkampf or St-Ambroise

Built in 1864 and Maurice Chevalier’s debut venue in 1910, this excellent little concert hall draws French (eg Les Têtes Raides) and international rock and pop legends. Recently renovated and now a symphony of lively reds, yellows and green, the Bataclan also masquerades as a theatre and dance hall.

L’ÉLYSÉE-MONTMARTRE Map

01 44 92 45 47; www.elyseemontmartre.com; 72 blvd de Rochechouart, 18e; admission €15-45; Anvers

A huge old music hall with a great sound system, L’Élysée-Montmartre is one of the better venues in Paris for one-off rock and indie concerts (Hush Puppies, Morgan Heritage, Sabotage, Skatalites). It opens for concerts at 6.30pm and hosts club events and big-name DJs at 11.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays.

L’OLYMPIA Map

08 92 68 33 68; www.olympiahall.com; 28 blvd des Capucines, 9e; admission €35-110; Opéra

The Olympia was opened by the founder of the Moulin Rouge in 1888 and is said to be the oldest concert hall in Paris. It’s an atmospheric venue of manageable size, with a sloping floor. It has hosted all the big names over the years, from Johnny Halliday to Jimi Hendrix. This is the hallowed venue of one of Édith Piaf’s last performances, and what Jeff Buckley considered his best ever concert, the seminal Live at l’Olympia in 1995.


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CLASSICAL


The city hosts dozens of orchestral, organ and chamber-music concerts each week. In addition to the theatres and concert halls listed here, Paris’ beautiful churches have much-celebrated organs and can be wonderful places to hear music. Many concerts don’t keep to any fixed schedule, but are simply advertised on posters around town. Admission fees vary, but usually cost from €20 for adults and half that for students.

CONSERVATOIRE NATIONAL SUPÉRIEUR DE MUSIQUE ET DE DANSE Map

01 40 40 46 47; www.cnsmdp.fr; 209 av Jean Jaurès, 19e; box office noon-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun, to 8pm on day of performance; Porte de Pantin

Students at France’s National Higher Conservatory of Music and Dance put on free orchestra concerts and recitals several times a week, in the afternoon or evening; check its website for the monthly schedule.

SALLE PLEYEL Map

01 42 56 13 13; www.sallepleyel.fr; 252 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e; tickets €10-85; box office noon-7pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm on day of performance; Ternes

This highly regarded hall dating from the 1920s hosts many of Paris’ finest classical music recitals and concerts, including those by the celebrated Orchestre de Paris (www.orchestredeparis.com, in French). It has recently emerged from a protracted renovation and now looks (and sounds) even more magnifique.

THÉÂTRE DU CHÂTELET Map

01 40 28 28 40; www.chatelet-theatre.com, in French; 1 place du Châtelet, 1er; concert tickets €10-60, opera €10-90, ballet €10-55; box office 11am-7pm, no performances Jul & Aug; Châtelet

This central venue hosts concerts as

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