Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [222]
Another, already known by a bunch of people, but one I love is L’Étoile Manquante (Click here; 01 42 72 48 34; www.cafeine.com; 34 rue du Vieille du Temple, 4e; Hôtel de Ville or St-Paul Café).
For an aperitif? Definitely The Experimental Cocktail Club or Le Fumoir.
Best neighbourhood bar? Le Fée Verte ( 01 43 72 31 24; 108 rue de la Roquette, 11e; Voltaire): I started Netvibes here three years ago – imagine the perfect dream bar with wi-fi; it was one of the first. I love the idea of being in contact with the world and saying ‘Can I have another cappuccino, please?’!
For live music? La Scène Bastille ( 01 48 06 50 70; www.scenebastille.com; 2bis rue des Taillandiers, 11e; 7.30pm-6am Mon-Sat; Bastille) and Le Batofar, far from everything (it’s the last stop) but one of the most interesting places, different types of music and lots of style.
Best concept bar? There are very few. On Elizabeth St in New York every bar is a whole experience, has an entire design. Here in Paris you still have the vieux bistro type, but you don’t see the concept bar, or when you do see it, it’s on the Champs-Elysées and tries too hard to be trendy.
A new address? L’Orange Mécanique ( 09 54 43 55 02; www.myspace.com/lorangemecanique; 72 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e; Parmentier) – not crowded, interesting music and a fun décor.
Nightlife philosophy? You can be in the best place by yourself or the worst place with your friends; I would always go for the second.
Interviewed by Nicola Williams
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CHEZ LOUISETTE Map
01 40 12 10 14; Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen; noon-6pm Sat-Mon; Porte de Clignancourt
Here since 1967, this little bistro is a highlight of any visit to Paris’ largest flea market. Market-goers crowd around little tables to eat lunch (mains €15 to €20) and hear old-time chanteuses and chanteurs (they change regularly) belt out numbers by Piaf and other classic French singers, accompanied by accordion music; you might even get to see an inspired diner jump up to dance la guingette (the jig) in the aisles.
LE VIEUX BELLEVILLE Map
01 44 62 92 66; www.le-vieux-belleville.com; 12 rue des Envierges, 20e; admission free; performances at 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri; Pyrénées
This old-fashioned bistro at the top of Parc de Belleville is an atmospheric venue for performances of chansons featuring accordions and an organ grinder three times a week. It’s a lively favourite with locals, though, so booking ahead is advised. ‘The Old Belleville’ serves classic bistro food (open for lunch Monday to Saturday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday).
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DANCE
The Ballet de l’Opéra National de Paris (www.opera-de-paris.fr, in French) performs at both the Palais Garnier and the Opéra Bastille. Other important venues for both classical and modern dance are the Théâtre du Châtelet and those listed here.
LE REGARD DU CYGNE Map
01 43 58 55 93; www.leregarducygne.com, in French; 210 rue de Belleville, 20e; admission €5-13; Place des Fêtes
Le Regard du Cygne prides itself on being an independent, alternative performance space. Situated in the creative 20e, this is where many of Paris’ young and daring talents in movement, music and theatre congregate to perform. If you’re in the mood for some innovative and experimental modern dance, performance or participation, this is the place to come. The box office is open one hour before performances.
THÉÂTRE DE LA VILLE Map
01 42 74 22 77; www.theatredelaville-paris.com, in French; 2 place du Châtelet, 4e; adult €17-23, student & under 28yr €12-13.50; box office 11am-7pm Mon, to 8pm Tue-Sat; Châtelet
While the Théâtre de la Ville also hosts theatre and music, it’s most celebrated for its contemporary dance productions by such noted choreographers as Merce Cunningham, Angelin Preljocaj and Maguy Marin. Depending on availability, students and those under 28 can buy up to two tickets for €12 or €13.50 each on the day of the performance. There are no performances in July and