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minimalist hotel that doesn’t have any of the attitude that generally goes with the concept. White, black and grey predominate and help ‘frame’ the fabulous contemporary art by painter Fabrice Hybert. The airy spaces (the breakfast area and bar are in a glassed-in courtyard), fireplace and real books (as opposed to decorative items) in the lobby for guests’ use are as welcome as the nonsmoking floor, but rooms are on the petite side.

HÔTEL DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES Map Hotel €€

01 43 59 11 42; www.champselysees-paris-hotel.com; 2 rue d’Artois, 8e; s €105-115, d €117-130, tr €143-150; St-Philippe du Roule;

A lovely hotel on a quiet street just up from the brash avenue of the same name, the Champs-Elysées offers 35 rooms with their own custom-made wooden furniture and renovated bathrooms done up in white tiles. We love the skylit lounge/study with the mural just off the lobby.

HÔTEL ALISON Map Hotel €€

01 42 65 54 00; www.hotelalison.com; 21 rue de Surène, 8e; s €80-165, d €112-165, tw €135-145, tr €165, ste €204-290; Madeleine;

This excellent-value 34-room midrange hotel, just west of place de la Madeleine, attracts with the bold colours of its carpets and furnishings and modern art in the lobby. Prices depend on whether rooms have bath or shower and the view. Double room 37 (€112), for example, looks on to rue Surène, while room 31 (€145) overlooks a leafy patio.

HÔTEL DE SÈZE Map Hotel €€

01 47 42 69 12; www.hoteldeseze.com; 16 rue de Sèze, 9e; s €107-110, d & tw €120-150, tr €140; Madeleine

On no account to be confused with its almost namesake, the posh Hôtel Sezz in the 16e, this 25-room no-frills establishment is excellent value for its location – it’s so close to the place de la Madeleine you’ll wake up smelling the coffee from Fauchon. For a real treat, ask for the double with Jacuzzi.

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CLICHY & GARE ST-LAZARE

These areas offer some excellent midrange and reasonably priced top-end hotels. The better deals are away from Gare St-Lazare but there are several places along rue d’Amsterdam beside the station worth checking out. Clichy offers a couple of very unusual places to stay in the budget category.

HÔTEL FAVART Map Hotel €€

01 42 97 59 83; www.hotel-paris-favart.com; 5 rue Marivaux, 2e; s €100-130, d €130-160, tr €140-180, q €155-200; Richelieu Drouot;

This stylish Art Nouveau hotel with 37 rooms facing the Opéra Comique feels like it never let go of the belle époque. It’s an excellent choice if you’re interested in shopping, being within easy walking distance of the grands magasins on blvd Haussmann. We like the prints on the walls in the lobby and the dramatic wrought-iron staircase leading up to the 1st floor, but not the fake books.

AUSTIN’S ST-LAZARE Map Hotel €€

01 48 74 48 71; www.hotelaustins.com; 26 rue d’Amsterdam, 9e; s/d €98/135; St-Lazare

This hotel, located conveniently opposite Gare St-Lazare, has 36 rooms. Just steps away are the department stores of the Grand Boulevards and the fine food shops of place de la Madeleine.

NEW ORIENT HÔTEL Map Hotel €€

01 45 22 21 64; www.hotelneworient.com; 16 rue de Constantinople, 8e; s €89-115, d €106-115, tw €115-140, tr & q €150; Europe; Filles du Calvaire;

This delightful place is situated in a neighbourhood of the 8e north of Gare St-Lazare that seems to have only shops that sell musical instruments and/or sheet music. It has a lot of personality, especially in the public areas. The 30 guestrooms are not as nice, though several have Second Empire furnishings and decorative busts. Some, including twin room 7 and double room 8, even have little balconies.

HÔTEL BRITANNIA Map Hotel €€

01 42 85 36 36; www.hotelbritannia.com; 24 rue d’Amsterdam, 9e; s/d/tr €79/89/105; St-Lazare;

This 46-room place with narrow hallways but pleasant, clean rooms is just opposite Gare St-Lazare and a quick walk to the grands magasins (department stores) on blvd Haussmann. The plaster reliefs of Roman citizens lining the entrance hall are from the Louvre and give the place something of a classical feel. Ask about the three-night packages.