Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [275]
ONF (Office National des Forêts; 03 44 57 03 88; www.onf.fr, in French; 1 av de Sylvie) The National Forests Office is almost always shut, given its guardian practically lives in the forest; call ahead to find out about its organised forest walks.
Post Office (26 av du Maréchal Joffre)
Tourist Office ( 03 44 67 37 37; www.chantilly-tourisme.com; 60 av du Maréchal Joffre; 9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun May-Sep, 9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) Ample information on Chantilly, including accommodation lists and a trio of promenades leaflets outlining walks through town, along Chantilly’s two canals and around the racecourse.
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
Aux GoÛters Champêtres ( 03 44 57 46 21; Château de Chantilly; lunch menus €19.50, €32 & €41.50; 11am-7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Nov) A wonderful spot for a summery lunch in the sun, this fine restaurant sits in the windmill of the park’s hameau (hamlet). Its chief claim to fame: its crème Chantilly whipped up for the past 20 years by prized local chef Jean-Michel Duda.
Le Goutillon ( 03 44 58 01 00; 61 rue du Connétable; starters €8-10, mains €15-25; lunch & dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat) With its red-and-white checked tablecloths, simple wooden tables and classic bistro fare, Le Goutillon is a cosy French affair much loved by local expats. It’s as much wine bar as munch hole.
Auberge Le Vertugadin ( 03 44 57 03 19; www.restaurantlevertugadin.fr; 44 rue du Connétable; starters €14-38, mains €20-32, menus €28; lunch & dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat, lunch Sun) Old-style and elegant, this ode to regional cuisine – think meat, game and terrines accompanied by sweet onion chutney – fills a white-shuttered townhouse. A warming fire roars in the hearth in winter, and summer welcomes diners to its walled garden.
Le Boudoir ( 03 44 55 44 49; 100 rue du Connétable; lunch menus €7.50-16; 11am-6pm Mon, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun) This relaxed salon de thé (tearoom) with sofas to lounge on and magazines to read is the place to sample crème Chantilly in all its decadence: go for one of several hot chocolate types topped with the lashings of the stuff, a chococcino (a cream-topped mix of coffee and chocolate) or chocolate fondue served just for two. Le Boudoir also serves perfect light lunches – salads, savoury tarts, gourmet savoury platters and wok-cooked dishes.
L’Atmosphère ( 03 44 60 58 75; 5 rue de Paris; starters €5-8, mains €10-14, menus €12.20, €16 & €24; lunch & dinner to 11.30pm Mon-Sat) A refreshingly youthful spirit pervades this contemporary eating space, the restaurant of Café Noir around the corner on place Omer Vallon. Interior décor is funky and Mediterranean dining is beneath a glass roof or in a cobbled courtyard.
La Capitainerie ( 03 44 57 15 89; www.restaurantfp-chantilly.com; Château de Chantilly; lunch menus €15.50-29.50; lunch Wed-Mon) Enviably nestled beneath the vaulted stone ceiling of the chateau kitchens, La Capitainerie captures history’s grandeur and romance. Fare is traditional and includes crème Chantilly at every opportunity. Its weekend formule buffet à volonté (help-yourself-to-as-much-as-you want buffet deal; €19.50) is good value. Afternoon tea from 3pm.
For picnic supplies:
Atac (5 place Omer Vallon; 9am-6pm)
La Cave de Chantilly (69 av du Maréchal Joffre)
Weekly food market (place Omer Vallon; 8.30am-12.30pm Wed & Sat)
Return to beginning of chapter
SLEEPING
The tourist office has a list of uninspired chain hotels in town.
À la Cantilienne ( 03 44 58 05 76; www.chantilly-chambres-dhotes.fr, in French; 15 rue des Cascades; d €95-125, extra bed €25; ) A five-minute stroll from the high wall of the princes’ kitchen garden sits this delightful B&B, the family home of Monsieur and Madame Vergne-Hyttenhove aplomb a grassy hillock. Its two spacious rooms both peep out on the pretty garden that languishes out back.
La Ferme