Paris_ The Collected Traveler - Barrie Kerper [0]
A VINTAGE DEPARTURES ORIGINAL, JULY 2011
Copyright © 2000, 2011 by Barrie Kerper
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Vintage Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, and in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto.
Some of the material originally published in the United States as part of Paris by Three Rivers Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, in 2000.
Vintage is a registered trademark and Vintage Departures and colophon are trademarks of Random House, Inc.
All photos by the author with the exception of those that appear in locations 13.1 and 13.2 (courtesy of Patricia and Walter Wells), 22.1 (courtesy of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant), 24.1 (courtesy of Quentin Bacon), 30.1 (courtesy of Jack McAuliffe), 43.1 (The Phillips Collection, Washington, D.C.), bm1.1, bm1.2, and bm1.3 (courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel George V), bm1.4 and bm1.5 (courtesy of Pavillon de la Reine), bm1.6 (courtesy of Hotel Verneuil), bm1.7 (courtesy of Hotel Thérèse), bm1.8 (courtesy of Hotel Récamier), bm1.9, bm1.10, bm1.11 (courtesy of Charles Coffre), bm1.12 (courtesy of Hollins University), bm1.13 (courtesy of Jenny McCormick), and col1.1, fm1.1, p1.1, 1.1, 4.1, 5.1, 5.2, p2.1, 13.3, p3.1, 22.2, 24.2, p5.1, 26.1, 29.1, 29.2, 49.1, 49.2, 49.3, bm1.14, bm1.15, bm1.16, bm1.17, bm1.18 (courtesy of Arlene Lasagna).
“Letter from Paris,” located here, originally appeared in the Winter 1995 issue of the Hollins alumnae magazine and is reprinted with kind permission.
Owing to limitations of space, all acknowledgments to reprint previously published material can be found here.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Paris : the collected traveler / edited by Barrie Kerper.
p. cm.—(Vintage departures)
“An inspired companion guide.”
Includes bibliographical references.
eISBN: 978-0-307-73932-2
1. Paris (France)—Description and travel—Sources. 2. Travelers’ writings. 3. Paris (France)—Social life and customs—Sources. 4. Paris (France)—Guidebooks. 5. Paris (France)—Biography. 6. Interviews—France—Paris. I. Kerper, Barrie.
DC707.P2546 2011
914.4’3610484—dc22
2011013200
www.vintagebooks.com
Cover design by Abby Weintraub
Cover photograph © Silvia Otte/Getty Images
v3.1
Once again, to my mother, Phyllis,
who always believed my boxes of files
held something of value,
and, in memorium, to my father, Peter.
The memory of their first visit to Paris in 1979,
when I lived there as a student,
remains one of the fondest of my life.
CONTENTS
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
Epigraph
Introduction
FRANCE
France: The Outsider by Ian Jack
Dreyfus Is Decorated
La Poste and I by Barbara Wilde
The French, Rude? Mais Non! by Joseph Voelker
Recommended Reading
PARIS
Foreword to John Russell’s Paris by Rosamond Bernier
According to Plan—Maps of Paris by Catharine Reynolds
Why I Love My Quincaillerie by Barbara Wilde
Thirza’s Take on Paris by Thirza Vallois
Proust’s Paris by Sanche de Gramont
We’ll Always Have … Questions by Ann Burack-Weiss
Recommended Reading
Interview: Patricia Wells
LES QUARTIERS
The New Left Bank by Alexander Lobrano
On the Île Saint-Louis by Herbert Gold
The Paris of Parisians by Catharine Reynolds
Recommended Reading
LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE
A Saga of Bread by Naomi Barry
Liquid Gold by Susan Herrmann Loomis
The Anatomy of Success: Rémi Flachard, International Specialist in Vintage Cookbooks by Naomi Barry
Why We Love French Wine by Peter Hellman
Recommended Reading
Interview: Kermit Lynch
Interview: Ina Garten
À TABLE!
A Clean, Well-Lighted Café in Montparnasse by Adair Lara
Counter Culture: The Success of Breaking the Rules by Naomi Barry
Thanksgiving in Paris by Laura Chamaret
Recommended Reading
Interview: Alexander Lobrano
MUSEUMS, MONUMENTS, AND GARDENS
The Walls of Paris by Mary McAuliffe
Affordable Gothic Thrills by Anne Prah-Perochon
A Tale of Two Artists by Catharine Reynolds
Of Cobbles, Bikes, and Bobos by David Downie
Perfection Squared