Paris_ The Collected Traveler - Barrie Kerper [227]
And after you’ve looked at all the Charolais cattle everywhere—cattle actually outnumber humans in Burgundy—go and eat a really good dry-aged Charolais steak in a traditional restaurant. You’ll find many listed in our book.
TWO PERFECT DAYS IN BURGUNDY
Billing itself as the “world’s premier active travel company,” Butterfield & Robinson (butterfield.com) has had a long-standing relationship with Burgundy. B&R offers trips to sixty destinations worldwide, with four different journeys that include Burgundy: biking, self-guided biking, walking, and a wine “grand journey” that also includes Bordeaux and the Piemonte region of Italy. Though its most popular walking trip in 2010 was along the Amalfi Coast, its most popular biking trip was to Burgundy. (Additionally, B&R has at least nine other trip options in other parts of France.)
Founded in 1966, Butterfield & Robinson refers to George Butterfield, his high school roommate Sidney Robinson, and Sidney’s sister Martha Robinson, who together coordinated a trip to Europe for forty-three students. (Martha later married George, thus becoming the only true Butterfield & Robinson.) Early B&R trips were only for students, who biked from youth hostel to youth hostel. But at some point along the way the trips were crafted to be more distinctive and more comfortable, and B&R is now known to have pioneered the concept of luxury biking tours in Europe. The three founders, who use the motto “Slow Down to See the World,” also have a reputation for providing once-in-a-lifetime experiences and unique access to events, people, and places that are very difficult or impossible for travelers to arrange on their own. All three are still involved with the operation of the company, and in 2009 they welcomed Erik Blachford, former CEO of Expedia and onetime B&R guide, as a new partner.
In an interview with the Globe and Mail, George was asked to give some advice specific to running a high-end business. “It’s pretty simple,” he said. “Just get it right. People don’t want to be treated like they’re just one of thousands and thousands. You want everything to be special. And an awful lot of group travel is pretty routine, pretty predictable.” His remarks really appealed to me, so I sent him a query asking if he would share some of his favorite things about Burgundy. Assuming he wouldn’t have time to share more than a few sentences, I was thrilled to receive his reply, “Two Perfect Days in Beaune,” reprinted here.
In 1986 we moved the B&R office from Paris to Beaune. Centrally located, with arguably the world’s best wine and biking, our offices in Beaune are B&R’s European headquarters and home to twelve hundred bicycles.
Start your first day with a buttery croissant from Pâtisserie Bouché before a morning visit to the Hospices Civils de Beaune. Head over to the patio at Le Conty for a light lunch. After lunch, drive to Gevrey-Chambertin along the Route des Grands Crus, passing through some of the most famous grands crus of the Côte-de-Nuits. Or bike up into the Côte-de-Beaune via Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses. Dinner tonight could be on the terrace of the lovely Le Jardin des Remparts, or for a more casual option, Les Caves Madeleine, a charming wine store and restaurant. For an evening nightcap try Le Bout du Monde.
If you are in Beaune on a Saturday, head over early to Le Grand Café on Place Carnot and watch the farmers set up for the spectacular morning market. Pick up some local Epoisses, a baguette, and a bottle of wine for later. Stroll around the cobblestone streets and the rampart walls of Beaune. In the afternoon you can head south by car or by bike to Meursault through the villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. If you haven’t had lunch already, you could stop at a great local restaurant, Le Montrachet, in Puligny-Montrachet, or if it is later