Paris_ The Collected Traveler - Barrie Kerper [250]
BHV
Short for Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville, the BHV (52 rue de Rivoli, 4ème / bhv.fr) is one of Paris’s legendary department stores—see a very detailed and informative entry on les grands magasins on my blog. I reference it here not for its wares (though the basement hardware department, believe it or not, has incredibly cool stuff that you just can’t find in North America) but for its rooftop terrace, which I rarely hear anyone talk about. I found it by accident and couldn’t believe my good fortune to be sitting up there with a grand view all around and only two other people. It’s a great outdoor space to know about—it’s free, relatively quiet, and a good spot to take a break if you’ve been shopping or sightseeing in the fourth arrondissement.
Le Bonbon au Palais
I love La Mère de Famille, the most famous address in Paris for old-fashioned candies and confections, but I also love newcomer Le Bonbon au Palais (19 rue Monge, 5ème / bonbonsaupalais.fr). The shop is decorated to make you feel like you’ve stepped into a 1950s classroom, with a note to all written in chalk on the blackboard. On my last visit there, I learned: La vie est bien plus belle avec des bonbons … (Candy makes life better.) The owner has gathered the best sweets from all around France and displays them in large glass jars with lids. It is indeed a palace, filled with forgotten treasures and childhood favorites (for the French, anyway), and though it seems an obvious destination for kids, it’s hard for anyone of any age not to appreciate the whimsical and exuberant atmosphere of this unique shop.
Bon Chic, Bon Genre
This phrase translates as “good style, good class,” and is roughly equivalent to the North American word “preppy.” It’s commonly used when referring to restaurants, stores, and anywhere “les BCBGs” hang out (that’s pronounced bay-say-bay-zhay). BCBG is also the name of Max Azria’s line of clothing.
Bonjour Paris
Bonjour Paris is a terrific Web site (bonjourparis.com). It’s an outstanding resource for visitors to Paris as well as anyone who is a devoted Francophile. American expat Karen Fawcett, who’s lived in Paris since 1988, has been maintaining the site since 1995, and with each passing year it becomes more and more indispensable. May 1, 2010, marked Fawcett’s twenty-second anniversary in Paris, and as she noted in a posting that day, “After all these years, more of me is French than American.… Paris has captured my heart and part of my soul.”
Fawcett and I share not only a passion for Paris but also for the Eloise books, and for the idea that the more people are able to travel, the greater global understanding will become among people and nations. I caught up with her by telephone recently:
Q: Before moving to Paris, what had your relationship with the city been?
A: I fell in love with the Eiffel Tower when I was thirteen and in Paris on a teen tour. Years later, when my (now deceased) husband was transferred to the City of Light, at first I didn’t want to leave the States, even though his gig was only for one year, but once there I was in love all over again. Though it bears repeating that living there is an entirely different experience than visiting. But I had one hell of a time! Eighty-seven consecutive nights of house guests, not knowing three words of French, and a husband who worked sixty-five hours a week.
Q: What are some features about Bonjour Paris that you think make it different or more worthwhile than other Internet sites devoted to the city?
A: Mainly, we’re not for readers who just want to know where the Eiffel Tower is located. Bonjour Paris devotees have been there and done that. The site is known for featuring in-depth stories by good writers on Paris and other places in France, as well as for tons and tons of practical information and tips.
Q: You have been very honest in your postings about life in Paris—that it isn’t all roses and foie gras. Now that you have the benefit of years there behind you, what are some of the most important words of advice you might share with anyone thinking of