Paris_ The Collected Traveler - Barrie Kerper [28]
Portraits of France, Robert Daley (Little, Brown, 1991). As a naive étudiante in Paris in 1979, I did not realize why the rue Lauriston, where Hollins Abroad Paris had its school for thirty-plus years, was referred to as sinistre until I read Daley’s chapter “The Gestapo of the Rue Lauriston.” There I learned that 93 rue Lauriston was the site of an infamous den of torture and inquisition during World War II—not by the Nazis but by a gang of French convicts organized by Pierre Bonny and Henri Lafont. (Happily, although I have nothing but fond memories of my classes at no. 16, Hollins has since moved its school out of the sixteenth arrondissement altogether.) Daley has put together a miniature tour of French history and culture in this collection of twenty essays. While his portraits take readers to all corners of l’hexagone, even dedicated students of France may find some surprises here, as he preferred to find his stories in places where most readers haven’t looked before.
When in France …
Different from the lengthier tomes featured in this section are the following sources on France and the French. These are more like guidebooks, though the subjects are dealt with in more detail than in a traditional guidebook.
Culture Shock! France: A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette, Sally Adamson Taylor (Marshall Cavendish, 2008). Similar to—but not quite as thorough as—Polly Platt’s books below, this guide covers such topics as the French attitude toward pets, the “no” syndrome, dos and don’ts in restaurants, visas and work permits, queuing, office relationships, why businesses close for lunch, etc. Although some of the topics pertain more to people who plan to be in France for an extended stay, this is a really useful book even for short visits. Note that there is also a Culture Shock! Paris guide by Frances Gendlin (Marshall Cavendish, 2007).
France: Instructions for Use, Alison Culliford and Nan McElroy (Illustrata, 2007). Hands down, this is the best book of its kind and is indisputably indispensable. And it measures about 5 × 4 inches, so it’s perfect to bring along and carry around with you every day. It is rather remarkable that a book so small in size has so much packed into it, but there is truly not a practical topic missing. The little book’s subtitle says it all: The Practical, On-site Assistant for the Enthusiastic (Even Experienced) Traveler. Nan McElroy is the founder of the Instructions series (there are also volumes on Italy and Greece that are equally indispensable), each book being the publication she wished she’d had on her first trip. Instructions books have two components: the little handbook and the free “Planning Your Adventure” download (in this case from franceinstructions.com), which is most applicable in preparing for your trip, as opposed to consulting it once you’ve arrived at your destination. I love everything about this book, but I especially like the “Ten Tips for the Traveler Abroad,” which include some Collected Traveler pearls of wisdom: leave home sweet home behind; however much luggage you’re taking, it’s too much; don’t try to see too much in too short a time, whether in one day or ten; plan ahead for those experiences that are really important to you; and it can help to remember the Stones’ famous words “You can’t always get what you want.” Don’t visit Paris, or anywhere in France, without this portable handbook.
French or Foe? Getting the Most Out of Visiting, Living and Working in France (1994, revised 2003) and Savoir Flair!: 211 Tips for Enjoying France and the French (2000), both by Polly Platt and published by Culture Crossings, the company Platt founded in 1986 as a training organization for corporate managers and executives and their spouses. Both of these on-the-mark books are indispensable for anyone planning to live, work, or study in France, but they’re also essential for anyone who wants to really, really understand the ways