Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [100]
Taberna de Don Jaime (Map; 53-5023; San Martín 203; 4pm-2am) This smoky tavern is a favorite with locals and tourists alike. It is also a showcase for artisanal wines and piscos. On weekends, the crowds show up to dance to live Latin and rock tunes into the wee hours.
PARACAS
In the waterfront El Chaco village of Paracas there are loads of look-alike beachfront restaurants serving fresh seafood throughout the day. Unfortunately motelo (turtle meat) still winds up on some menus, so please don’t encourage the catching of this endangered creature by ordering dishes made with its meat.
Juan Pablo (Map; 79,-6806, 79-7240; Blvd Turístico; mains S15-40; 7am-9pm) Probably the best of the restaurants with a waterfront view, Juan Pablo is a winner for fresh seafood and offers breakfast for those departing early to the Islas Ballestas.
El Chorito (Map; 54-5045; Paracas s/n; mains S20-30; noon-9pm) This restaurant is located a few blocks back from the waterfront at the back of the Hostal Santa Maria. It offers mostly seafood specialties, and can accommodate large groups.
Getting There & Around
Pisco is 6km west of Carr Panamericana Sur, and only buses with Pisco as the final destination actually go there. Both Ormeño (Map; 53-2764; San Francisco) and Flores (Map; 79-6643; San Martín) offer multiple daily departures to Lima (S40, 3½ hours) and other places south, such as Nazca (S35, four hours) and Arequipa (S60, 12 to 15 hours). They may also advertise buses to Cuzco or international destinations, but these will most likely not be direct routes.
Since the 2007 earthquake, a number of services have also added multiple daily buses between Lima and the El Chaco beach district of Paracas (S40 to S55, 3½ hours) before continuing to other destinations south. These include Cruz del Sur (53-6336), which stops at a hotel about 2km outside the center of town; Ormeño, which stops in the plaza of El Chaco and sells tickets through Paracas Explorer (53-1487, 54-5089; www.pparacasexplorer.com; Paracas 9); and Oltursa (in Lima 01-708-5000; www.oltursa.com.pe), which stops at the Hilton Doubletree Hotel in Paracas.
If you’re not on a direct bus to either Pisco or Paracas, ask to be left at the San Clemente turnoff on Carr Panamericana Sur, where fast and frequent colectivos wait to shuttle passengers to central Pisco’s Plaza de Armas (S3, 10 minutes) or Paracas (S10, 20 minutes). In the reverse direction, colectivos for the San Clemente turnoff leave frequently from near Pisco’s central market. After dark, avoid the dangerous market area and take a taxi instead (S5). From the San Clemente turnoff, you can flag down buses, which pass frequently heading either north or south.
A short taxi ride around Pisco costs S3. Transportation from Pisco to Paracas is possible via combi (Map; S1.50, 30 minutes), or colectivo (Map; S2.50, 20 minutes), which leave frequently from near Pisco’s central market.
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ICA
056 / pop 125,200 / elev 420m
The capital of its department, Ica may have a downtrodden air, but it boasts a thriving wine and pisco industry, with grapes irrigated by the river that shares its name, plus an excellent museum, colonial churches and rowdy annual fiestas. Its slightly elevated position means that it sits above the coastal mist and the climate is dry and sunny.
Information
Tour agencies and internet cafes abound in the area around the Plaza de Armas.
BCP (Plaza de Armas) Has a Visa/MasterCard ATM and changes US dollars and traveler’s checks.
DIRCETUR (21-0332; www.dirceturica.gob.pe; Grau 148) Government-sponsored office of tourism.
Hospital (23-4798, 23-4450; Cutervo 104; 24hr) For emergency services.
Interbank (Grau cuadra 2) Has a 24-hour global ATM.
Police (23-5421; Elías cuadra 5; 24hr) At the city center’s edge.
Serpost (23-3881; San Martín 156) Southwest of the Plaza de Armas.
Telefónica-Perú (22-2111; Huánuco 289) Open daily for local, long-distance and international calls.
Dangers & Annoyances
Ica has a richly deserved reputation for theft. Stay alert,