Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [112]
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CHALA
054 / pop 2500
The tiny, ramshackle fishing village of Chala, about 170km from Nazca, presents intrepid travelers with an opportunity to break the journey to Arequipa and visit the archaeological site of Puerto Inca (admission free; 24hr), from whence fresh fish was once sent all the way to Cuzco by runners – no mean effort! The well-marked turnoff is 10km north of town, at Km 603 along Carr Panamericana Sur, from where a dirt road leads 3km west to the coastal ruins.
Near the ruins, Hotel Puerto Inca (25-8798; www.puertoinka.com.pe; Carr Panamericana Sur Km 603; s/d/tr/q S96/153/202/242; ) is a large resort set on a pretty bay. It has a campground that costs S13 per person, with a shower complex by the sea. It also offers horseback riding and rents bodyboards, kayaks, and jet skis.
In humble Chala itself are many more-basic guesthouses. The clean, friendly Hostal Grau (55-1009; Comercio 701; s/d S25/40) has only cold-water showers; ask for a room at the back with sea views. Local restaurants along the highway serve set lunches – trout is the special of the day, every day – from S5.
Colectivos to Chala (S15, 2½ hours) leave from the óvalo in Nazca when full from the early morning until mid-afternoon. Onward buses to Arequipa (S30, eight hours) via Camaná (S15, 4½ hours) stop in Chala at small ticket offices along Carr Panamericana Sur, with most buses departing in the evening. Major bus companies such as Cruz del Sur and Flores also have daily buses to Lima (S30 to S60, 11 hours) via Nazca (S10, three hours) that stop in Chala.
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CAMANÁ
054 / pop 14,600
After leaving Chala in the dust, Carr Panamericana Sur heads south for 220km, clinging tortuously to sand dunes dropping down to the sea, until it reaches positively urban Camaná. This coastal city has long been a summer resort popular with arequipeños (inhabitants of Arequipa) who flock to its beaches, about 5km from the center. An earthquake in June 2001 sparked a tsunami that devastated the beachside community, but seasonal tourism is now flourishing once again. Camaná is quite bleak during the low season, but is still a possible place to break the journey to Arequipa.
Orientation & Information
The main plaza is about a 15-minute walk toward the coast along the road where all the buses stop. On the plaza, BCP (9 de Noviembre 139) changes US dollars and has a 24-hour Visa/MasterCard ATM.
To get to the coast, colectivos to La Punta beach (S1, 10 minutes) leave from the intersection where Av Lima turns into a pedestrian walkway.
Sleeping & Eating
At the beach there are a few sparse restaurants and hotels, some bearing scars from the tsunami. Hotels get busy on summer weekends from January to April, even in the city center.
Hostal Montecarlo I (57-1101; Lima 514; s/d/tr S30/40/60) The main road along which the bus stations are lined up is chock-a-block with cheap, bare-bones hotels. This is one of the flashier ones, with clean rooms, 24-hour hot water, cable TV and phone. It also has a sister location, Hostal Montecarlo II, on the pedestrian walkway towards the main plaza.
Hotel Sun Valley (79-6108, 934-3969; eridv@hotmail.com; Carr Panamericana Sur Km 850, Cerrillos 2; r from S35; ) Outside town and close to the beach, this squeaky-clean hotel has friendly owners that have put comfy beds in every room. It also has its own private patch of beach and a restaurant that comes highly recommended. If arriving late, call for a pickup from the bus station.
Hotel de Turistas (55-1113; www.hoteldeturistas.net; Lima 138; s/d/tr incl breakfast S90/115/155; ) Housed in a large elegant building set in spacious gardens, this place is a cut above the competition. It has a restaurant and is just a short walk or taxi ride from the bus stations.
Getting There & Away
Frequent bus services to Arequipa (S12 to S42, 3½ hours) are provided by several companies, all of which are found along Lima, including luxurious Cruz del Sur (57-1491; Lima