Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [115]
Opposite the facade of the town’s oldest church, which mostly collapsed during a massive earthquake in 1868, is an 18th-century Spanish colonial jail, with intimidating iron-grilled windows. At one corner of the Plaza de Armas, visitors can enter the Casa Posada de Teresa Podesta (cnr Ancash & Ayacucho; admission S2; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri), a stately colonial mansion with its innards still intact.
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DETOUR: MOQUEGUA’S WINE COUNTRY
The land around Moquegua is perfect for growing the grapes that go into some of the nation’s top-shelf piscos. Eighteen local wineries are open to the public for tasting and tours; these bodegas range from small family-run operations such as Bodega Villegas to the industrial exporter Biondi. And if you’re not a fan of pisco, you’ll also find an interesting variety of wines, fruit liqueurs and cognacs. Stop by the municipal tourist office (Click here) to pick up a Wine Country map. Most wineries are only accessible by car, so hire a cab (per hour S12).
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Walk around the town center to see some of the typical sugarcane thatching, especially along Calle Moquegua, and have a peek inside Catedral Santa Catalina (Ayacucho s/n), which houses the body of 18th-century St Fortunata, whose hair and nails are said to be still growing.
CERRO BAÚL
A worthwhile excursion outside the city is to the flat-topped and steep-sided hill of Cerro Baúl, 18km northeast of Moquegua, once a royal brewery built by the Wari people (Click here). As was the case with succeeding Inca traditions, it was upper-class Wari women who were the skilled brewers here. Archaeologists who are still at work excavating the site believe that it was ceremonially destroyed by fire after one last, drunken chicha (fermented corn beer) bash, though why it was abandoned in such a rush remains a mystery so far. The rugged walk to the top of the site, which boasts panoramic views, takes about an hour. From Moquegua, a round-trip taxi costs about S30, or simply catch a combi (S1.50) or colectivo (S3) headed for Torata from central Moquegua and ask to be let off at Cerro Baúl.
Tours & Guides
Architectural walking tours of the town can be arranged through the Museo Contisuyo (46-1844; http://bruceowen.com/contisuyo/MuseoE.html; Tacna 294; adult/child S1.50/0.50; 8:30am-1pm & 2:30-5:30pm) with advanced notice. For guides of Cerro Baúl, try asking at the municipalidad (town hall) in Torata.
Sleeping
It’s best to pass up the cheap hostels near the bus stations in lieu of a safer option closer to the center of town.
Hospedaje Carrera (46-2173; Lima 320; s/d without bathroom S15/25, s/d S20/30) Sitting pretty, safe and secure behind its own garden gate, this pastel-colored little hostel has basic rooms and a convivial owner. There may be limited hot water in the communal bathrooms.
Hostal Plaza (46-1612; Ayacucho 675; s/d/tr S35/45/55) This is a neat spot by the plaza where some of the upstairs rooms have pretty views of the cathedral. The good-value rooms are airy and sport large-screen cable TVs.
Hostal Arequipa (46-1338; Arequipa 360; s/d/tr S37/48/59) Located on a busy main street not far from the plaza, the Arequipa has clean and cozy rooms with hot showers and cable TV. Service here is reasonably friendly and helpful.
Hostal Los Limoneros (46-1649; Lima 441; s/d/tr S40/55/70) It’s the quiet garden, with its shady patios and delicious smells, that makes this the most attractive and traditional guesthouse in town. Though not as luxurious as some hotels, the restful high-ceilinged rooms have hot water and cable TV.
Hotel El Mirador de Moquegua (46-1765; hmirador@derrama.org.pe; Alto de la Villa s/n; s/d US$25/40, bungalows from US$54, all incl breakfast; ) Perched on a cliff about 3km from the town center, El Mirador has a pool with a view, a game room and a restaurant. The design and decor are supremely ’60s.
Alameda Hotel (46-3971; Junín 322; s/d/tr incl breakfast S78/108/138; )