Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [117]
Restaurant El Peñon (79-0964; 2 de Mayo 100; mains S12-24; lunch & dinner) It has a prime shorefront position with tables that afford great views of the fishermen at the port across the way, but you may not be able to enjoy it due to the port’s distinctive smell.
Crazy Cow (48-4367; Moquegua 133; mains S14-27; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A short walk from the plaza, this cheerful subterranean parrillada (grill house) has a sign (in English) that will make you laugh. It serves all sorts of barbecue-style meats plus pastas and pizzas. It also has a full bar and wine list (bottles from S25).
Getting There & Away
There is an oddly ship-shaped bus terminal 1km northeast of town, but most companies continue to leave from smaller stations in the town center, a short walk from the plaza and the beach.
Cruz del Sur (48-2071; cnr Moquegua & Matará) and Ormeño (48-4187; cnr Junín & Matará) each have daily buses to Lima (S55 to S138, 16 to 18 hours). Ormeño also has direct services to Moquegua (S7, 1½ hours), and Arequipa (S20, five hours). Flores (48-2512; cnr Ilo & Matará) goes to the same destinations more frequently, with direct services to Tacna (S10, 3½ hours, every 45 minutes) and Arequipa (S18, every two hours).
Faster, slightly pricier colectivos to Tacna and sometimes Moquegua leave when full from the side streets near the smaller bus stations. A taxi to anywhere in town should cost S2.
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TACNA
052 / pop 262,700 / elev 460m
At the tail end of Carr Panamericana Sur, almost 1300km southeast of Lima, the hectic border outpost of Tacna is Peru’s southernmost city and the capital of its department. It is situated about 40km from the Chilean border and was occupied by Chile in 1880 after the War of the Pacific, until its people voted to return to Peru in 1929. Incidentally, Tacna has some of Peru’s best schools and hospitals; whether this is due to its Chilean ties is a matter of hotly debated opinion. The city also shows off British and French influences in its architecture and train system. Yet it remains staunchly, even defiantly, patriotic. You’ll never be in doubt as to which side of the border you’re actually on.
Information
Internet cafes are everywhere, and most offer inexpensive local, long-distance and international phone calls. Chilean pesos, Peruvian nuevos soles and US dollars can all be easily exchanged in Tacna. There’s a global ATM at the terminal terrestre.
BCP (San Martín 574) Has a Visa/MasterCard ATM, changes traveler’s checks and gives cash advances on Visa cards.
Bolivian consulate (24-5121; Bolognesi 1721; 8am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) Some nationalities (American included) will need to solicit a visa one month in advance and pay a US$130 entry fee; there’s another Bolivian consulate located in Puno.
Chilean consulate (42-3063; www.minrel.cl; Presbítero Andía at Saucini; 8am-1pm Mon-Fri) Most travelers don’t need a Chilean visa and head straight for the border instead.
Hospital (42-2121, 42-3361; Blondell s/n; 24hr) For emergency services.
Interbank (San Martín 646) Has a 24-hour global ATM.
iPerú (42-5514; iperutacna@promperu.gob.pe; San Martín 491) National tourist office, provides free information and brochures.
Lavandería Latina (24-3084; Vizquerra 26B; per kg S5; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Laundry service.
Oficina de Migraciónes (immigration office; 24-3231; Circunvalación s/n, Urb Él Triángulo; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Police (41-4141; Calderón de la Barca 353; 24hr)
Serpost (Bolognesi 361; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) South of the Plaza de Armas.
Dangers & Annoyances
Remember that international border traffic attracts thieves and other criminals. Keep a close watch on your belongings at all times, especially in and around the bus terminals, and don’t wander around alone after dark. When in doubt, take a taxi instead of walking.
Sights & Activities
You won’t need much more than an afternoon to see everything Tacna has to offer. If you’re coming from Chile, you may want to continue on immediately to Arequipa instead.
PLAZA DE ARMAS
Tacna’s main plaza, which