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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [119]

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atmosphere to this cool, blocky option by the plaza. Ubiquitous white linoleum lends the corridors a clinical feel. The rooms are worn, but the staff is cheerful.

Premier Hotel (24-6045; www.hotelpremier.com.pe; Bolognesi 804; s/d/tr incl breakfast S70/85/100; ) Surprisingly popular with travelers, the tired-looking Premier has comfy rooms with a snack bar below. The busy street outside near the central market area can be noisy, though.

Gran Hotel Central (41-5051; www.hotelcentralperu.net; San Martín 561; s/d/tr incl breakfast S75/105/135) The entrance to this once-plush hotel has a loudly buzzing neon sign that heralds slightly seedy, worn-around-the-edges rooms that are nevertheless spacious and have long sofas.

Maximo’s Hotel (24-2604; www.maximoshotel.com; Av Arias Aragüez 281; s/d/tr incl breakfast S90/115/130; ) Quirky Maximo’s has a lobby that’s overladen with plants, balconies and candelabra, all suffused by green-tinted light. There’s also a snack bar and good clean rooms with fans. The hotel sauna (S8 for guests) is open from 2pm to 10pm daily.

Hostal El Mesón (41-4070; www.mesonhotel.com; Hipólito Unánue 175; s/d/tr incl breakfast S100/120/130; ) El Mesón is a clean, modern and friendly option close to the plaza. It also has a cafeteria and in-room minibars.

Hotel Camino Real (42-1891; creal-hotel@star.com.pe; San Martín 855; s/d/tr incl breakfast S100/130/165; ) The flashy-looking Camino Real has comfy rooms with good amenities that include a minibar, but disappointing ’70s decor. It also has a startlingly red bar and a cafeteria.

Dorado Hotel (41-5741, 42-1111; www.doradohoteltacna.com; Av Arias Aragüez 145; s/d/tr incl breakfast S100/130/165; ) Undoubtedly Tacna’s top hotel, the elegant Dorado has artistically designed modern rooms with heavenly beds, a grand lobby bar and public spaces that exude an exclusive ambience.

Gran Hotel Tacna (42-4193; www.granhoteltacna.com; Bolognesi 300; s/d incl breakfast US$56/76; ) The blocky Gran Hotel Tacna has a choice of suites and many rooms with a balcony. Rooms are plush, and there are pleasant grounds and a pool, a restaurant with 24-hour room service and a bar with dancing.

Eating

Popular local dishes include patasca a la tacneña, a thick, spicy vegetable-and-meat soup, and picante a la tacneña, hot peppered tripe (it’s better than it sounds). A surprising number of hole-in-the-wall cafes serve fresh fruit and yogurt, as well as other healthy, vegetarian snacks.

Café Verdi (24-5688; Vigil 57; menús S7.50, snacks S3-8; 8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat) Serving up tasty baked goods and desserts, as well as affordable fixed lunches, this spot remains chock-a-block with diners throughout the day.

Fulin (95-233-1369; Av Arias Aragüez 396; menús S4.50; 9:30am-4pm Mon-Fri) This is a cheap vegetarian chifa in a rickety old building that somehow manages to deny the passing of time, but with a menu that offers gluten-free options. Just look for the sign with Chinese characters outside.

Sabor Latino (24-2389; Vigil 68; menús S7.50, mains S14-25; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) You’ll almost always find every table taken at this bustling cafe, which has lazy tropical ceiling fans and a spicy Latin soundtrack. It’s especially recommended for filling set lunches and dinners and Andean specialties such as cuy chactado (fried guinea pig).

La Mia Mama (24-2022; Av Arias Aragüez 204; mains S10-18; 6pm-11pm Mon-Sat) This little Italian joint is a great place to sip a glass of vino de chacra (local table wine) over one of the menu’s classic pizzas or pastas. Tables fill up quickly.

La Limón (42-5182; San Martín 843; mains S16-25; 10am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat) With its own private entryway guarded by modelesque staff, this courtyard restaurant is vacant at times. On the innovative menu are traditional Peruvian dishes done with fusion flair, accompanied by a top-notch South American wine list.

In the campiña (countryside) outside Tacna, several rustic restaurants come alive for weekend lunches, offering traditional fare and live music. In the nearby suburb of Pocollay, La Huerta (41-3080; Zela

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