Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [142]
The local people are descendants of two conflicting groups that originally occupied the area, the Cabanas and the Collagua. These two groups used to distinguish themselves by performing cranial deformations, but nowadays use distinctively shaped hats and intricately embroidered traditional clothing to denote their ancestry. In the Chivay area at the east end of the canyon, the white hats worn by women are usually woven from straw and are embellished with lace, sequins and medallions. At the west end of the canyon, the hats have rounded tops and are made of painstakingly embroidered cotton. The women don’t particularly enjoy being photographed, so always ask permission. Those who pose for photographs expect a tip.
For more information on outdoor outfitters in Arequipa and activity gear rental, Click here. For guided tours of the canyon leaving from Arequipa, Click here.
Chivay
054 / pop 6300 / elev 3630m
At the head of the Cañón del Colca, the capital of the province of Caylloma is a small, dusty transportation hub that sees waves of tourists breeze through as part of organized tours from Arequipa. Around the market area and in the main square are good places to catch a glimpse of the decorative clothing worn by local women. The town itself affords enchanting views of snowcapped peaks and terraced hillsides, and serves as a logical base from which to explore smaller towns further up the valley.
* * *
THE TRUTH ABOUT THE BOLETO TURÍSTICO
While some will say that the boleto turístico (tourist ticket; S35) is a scam, it is true that in order to visit most of the points of interest in the Cañón del Colca all foreigners must purchase this ticket. If you are taking an organized tour, the cost of the tour usually does not include this additional fee. If you are traveling alone, tickets can be purchased on most public buses entering or leaving Chivay, or in the town of Cabanaconde. Half of the proceeds from this ticket go to Arequipa for general maintenance and conservation of local tourist attractions, while the other half goes to the national agency of tourism.
* * *
INFORMATION
Limited tourist information can be gleaned from semiprofessional travel agencies cropping up around the main plaza. The police station is next to the municipalidad (town hall) on the plaza. There is one ATM in town located on Calle Salaverry one block west of the main plaza. Some of the higher-end hotels and a few shops around town exchange US dollars, euros and traveler’s checks at unfavorable rates. Internet access is available from a few cybercafes near the plaza.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
At the Casa Andina hotel, a tiny astronomical observatory (53-1020; Huayna Cápac s/n; admission S18) has nightly sky shows in Spanish and English. The price includes a 30-minute explanation and chance to peer into the telescope. It can be hard to catch a night with clear skies between December and April.
Chivay’s famous La Calera hot springs (admission S10; 4:30am-8pm) are 3.5km to the northeast of the village by road. There are large, clean pools, showers, changing rooms, a snack shop and a tiny ethnographic museum. The mineral-laden water leaves the ground at 85°C and is said to have curative properties. There are frequent colectivos (S1) from around the main plaza in Chivay to the springs, or you can walk or cycle by following the road downhill past the market and taking a left. Colectivos stop running at 6pm.
Several short hikes can easily be made around Chivay. For example, from where the road forks to the hot springs, stay to the left and walk beside the fertile fields to Corporaque, which has an arched colonial-era plaza and church. Head downhill and out of Corporaque past some small ruins and look for the orange bridge across the river. Notice the hanging cliff tombs as you cross the river over to Yanque, from where passing buses or colectivos return to Chivay. It’s an all-day walk; alternatively, rent mountain bikes in Chivay (see right).
It’s also possible to walk about 27km further up the northern side of the canyon from Corporaque,