Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [147]
The lava flows have had a major influence on drainage in the valley, constraining the Río Challahuire against the east side of the valley to form the Laguna de Chachas. The outlet of Laguna de Chachas then runs beneath lava flows for nearly 20km before emerging at Laguna Mamacocha.
The 65km-long valley surrounds the village of Andagua, near the snowy summit of Coropuna. Visitors seeking a destination full of natural wonders and virtually untouched by travelers will rejoice in this remote setting. From Andagua, a number of sites can be visited by foot or car. It is possible to hike to the top of the perfectly conical twin volcanoes which lie about 10km from town, though don’t expect a clear-cut trail. Other popular hikes are to a nearby mirador at 3800m and to the 40m high Izanquillay falls which are formed where the Río Andahua runs through a narrow lava canyon to the northeast of town. There are some chullpas (funerary towers) at Soporo, a two-hour hike or half-hour drive to the south of Andagua. En route to Soporo are the ruins of a pre-Columbian city named Antaymarca. Topographical maps of the area are available at Colca Trek (054-20-6217, 9-60-0170; www.colcatrek.com.pe; Jerusalén 401-B) in Arequipa. An alternative way to enter the valley is by starting from Cabanaconde, crossing the Cañón del Colca, then hiking over a 5500m pass before descending into El Valle de los Volcanes. This trek requires at least five days (plus time for proper acclimatization beforehand), and is best to attempt with an experienced guide and pack mules.
There are several cheap and basic hostels and restaurants in Andagua, including the recommended Casa Blanca. Camping is also possible, though you will need plenty of water and sun protection. To get to the valley from Arequipa, take a Reyna (43-0612) or a Transportes Trebol (42-5936) bus to Andagua (S25, 10 to 12 hours), both of which depart from Arequipa around 4pm. Return buses leave Andagua around 5:30pm. Some tour companies also visit El Valle de los Volcanoes as part of expensive tours in 4WD vehicles that may also include visits to the Cañón del Cotahuasi and Chivay.
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CAÑÓN DEL COTAHUASI
While the Cañón del Colca has stolen the limelight for many years, it is actually this remote canyon, 200km northwest of Arequipa as the condor flies, that is the deepest known canyon in the world. It is around twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, with stretches dropping down below 3500m. While the depths of the ravine are only accessible to experienced river runners (Click here), the rest of the fertile valley is also rich in striking scenery and trekking opportunities. The canyon also shelters several traditional rural settlements that currently see only a handful of adventurous travelers.
Sights & Activities
The main access town is appropriately named Cotahuasi (population 3800) and is at 2620m above sea level on the southeast side of the canyon. Northeast of Cotahuasi and further up the canyon are the villages of Tomepampa (10km away; elevation 2500m) and Alca (20km away; 2660m), which also have basic accommodations. En route you’ll pass a couple of thermal baths (admission S2).
Buses to the Sipia bridge (S3, one hour) leave the main plaza of Cotahuasi everyday at 6:30am, from where you can begin a number of interesting hikes into the deepest parts of the canyon. Forty-five minutes up the trail, the Sipia waterfall is formed where the Río Cotahuasi takes an impressive 100m tumble. Another 1½ hours on a well-trodden track brings you to Chaupo, an oasis of towering