Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [171]
Far less touristed, quiet Isla de la Luna boasts the partially rebuilt ruins of the convent that housed virgins of the sun – women chosen at a young age to serve as nuns to the sun god Inti.
SLEEPING & EATING
At the time of research there were five basic hostels in restful beachside Ch’allapampa and another three under construction. All charged B$15 to B$20 per person for accommodation. There are a handful of basic restaurants and shops.
Yumani, at the other end of the island, is far more developed, with dozens of accommodations ranging from B$15 to B$90 per person, plus relatively sophisticated dining options – pizza, and even vegetarian food, are on offer.
On Isla de la Luna, there are five basic hospedajes in Coati.
Camping is allowed on both islands. If you’re traveling with a tent, this is the perfect place to make use of it.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are three ways to ‘do’ the islands.
Conventional Tours
Common to the point of clichéd, sold by myriad agencies in Copacabana, the ‘tour’ (B$25; B$45 with Isla de la Luna) most visitors do consists only of boat rides. Admission to the islands (Isla del Sol north B$10, Isla del Sol south B$5, Isla de la Luna B$10) is not included. Competition is fierce and agencies can be dishonest about what you’ll get.
Here’s the scoop: the one-day tour leaves Copacabana at 8:30am and takes you to Ch’allapampa, to the north of Isla del Sol. Here, a local guide (Spanish-speaking only) meets you at the port and insists on guiding you around the Chincana and the Rock of the Puma, about 40 minutes walk away. It is not obligatory to accept his services, but there is no signposting or interpretive information, so it’s advisable to accept. At the end of the tour he will expect a tip of at least B$3.
You’ll have time for lunch in Ch’allapampa, where several restaurants offer sopa de quinua and trout dishes for around B$20, before the boat takes you to the south side of Isla del Sol. Here, you’ll have an hour or so to climb the stunningly beautiful (and stunningly steep) Inca stairway to the township of Yumani.
On the way back to Copacabana, most operators stop at some recently constructed floating islands (B$5) on the Sicuani peninsula – an enterprising attempt to cash in on the popularity of Puno’s Uros Islands (Click here).
Some operators cut time at Yumani to offer a side trip to Isla de la Luna in the afternoon. This is the only way to get to Isla de la Luna.
The traditional one-day tour is a distressingly rushed and commercial experience. Check out Transturin (www.transturin.com) and Crillon Tours (www.titicaca.com) in Puno for better, far more expensive tours that are less rushed and include food, luxury boats and English-speaking guides. Neither has an office in Copacabana.
Independent Travel
It’s easy to take yourself to the islands, using the same boats the tours use, with the welcome addition of time and flexibility. Buy a one-way ferry ticket to Isla del Sol (Yumani B$10, Ch’allapampa B$15), stay a night or more here or on Isla de la Luna, and return in your own time.
The 11km trail from one end of the island to the other is unmissable once you’re on it. A good way to find where it starts is to take the 8:00am boat to Ch’allapampa and join the tour of the Chincana, during which the guide will point it out. You can then walk to Yumani in around three hours, enjoying spectacular views on all sides. Take plenty of water and sunblock.
When they run, boats to Isla de la Luna will depart from the north in the early afternoon – ask at the port. See the table below for ferry departure times.
Community Tourism
The Red de Turismo Comunitario de Lago Titicaca (Community Tourism Network of Lake Titicaca) is a recent and welcome addition to the scene.
It offers half-day to three-day trips to three communities: Ch’allapampa on Isla del Sol, Coati on Isla de la Luna and Sahui