Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [175]
The alley heading away from the northwest side of the Plaza de Armas is Procuradores (Tax Collectors), nicknamed ‘Gringo Alley’ for its huddle of backpacker-focused restaurants, tour agents and other services. Watch out for predatory touts. Beside the hulking cathedral, on the Plaza de Armas, narrow Calle Triunfo leads steeply uphill toward Plaza San Blas, the heart of Cuzco’s eclectic, artistic barrio (neighborhood).
Recently the city has seen a resurgence of indigenous pride, and many streets have been signposted with new Quechua names, although they are still commonly referred to by their Spanish names. The most prominent example is Calle Triunfo, which is signposted as Sunturwasi.
Most travelers take a taxi into the city from the airport, bus terminals, or train station – or avail themselves of the free pickup offered by many guesthouses. For public transportation options around the city, Click here.
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INFORMATION
Bookstores
Many guesthouses, cafes and pubs have book exchanges. The best source of historical and archaeological information about the city and the surrounding area is the pocket-sized Exploring Cuzco by Peter Frost.
Recommended bookstores:
Bookstore Kiosk (Mantas 113; 9am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat) Novels and magazines in English and German. Located just inside the door of Centro Comercial.
Jerusalén (23-5428; Heladeros 143; 10am-2pm & 4pm-8pm Mon-Sat) Cuzco’s most extensive public book exchange (two used books, or one plus S8, will get you one book) plus used guidebooks, new titles and music CDs for sale.
SBS Bookshop (24-8106; Av El Sol 781A; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Small, but specializes in foreign-language books, especially in English.
South American Explorers Club (SAE; 24-5484; www.saexplorers.org; Atocsaycuchi 670; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Cuzco’s biggest book exchange; also sells foreign-language guidebooks and maps.
Cultural Centers
South American Explorers Club (24-5484; www.saexplorers.org; Atocsaycuchi 670; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) SAE’s Cuzco clubhouse has good-quality maps, books and brochures for sale, a huge stock of travel information and recommendations, wi-fi access, a book exchange and rooms for rent. Weekly events and limited volunteer information are available to nonmembers. (Click here for more on the SAE’s many services.)
Embassies & Consulates
Most foreign embassies and consulates are located in Lima (Click here). The following are honorary consul representatives in Cuzco:
Belgium (25-1278)
France (23-3610)
Germany (23-5459)
Italy (22-4398)
UK (23-9974)
USA (984-62-369)
Emergency
Policía de Turismo (PolTur, Tourist Police; 23-5123; Plaza Túpac Amaru s/n; 24hr) If you have something stolen, you’ll need to see these guys to get an official police report for insurance claims.
Immigration
Oficina de migraciónes (immigration office; 22-2741; www.digemin.com.pe; Av El Sol 612; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Will renew your tourist visa for a cost of US$1 per day. Best to do this before your time runs out, but still possible a few days after. You also need to come here if you lose your Tarjeta Andina (tourist card) – be prepared for a lot of red tape.
Internet Access
Internet cafes are found on almost every street corner. Many hotels and cafes offer free wireless.
Internet Resources
Andean Travel Web (www.andeantravelweb.com) More than 1000 pages of information and recommendations.
Diario del Cusco (www.diariodelcusco.com, in Spanish) Online edition of the local newspaper.
Municipalidad del Cusco (www.municusco.gob.pe, in Spanish) The city’s official website.
Laundry
Lavanderías (laundries) will wash, dry and fold your clothes from around S3 per kg. They’re everywhere, but cluster just off the Plaza de Armas on Suecia, Procuradores and Plateros, and