Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [185]
SANTA TERESA
Río Santa Teresa offers spectacular rafting in the gorge between the towns of Santa Teresa and Santa María, and downstream as far as Quillabamba. One word of warning: the section from Cocalmayo Hot Springs to Santa María consists of almost nonstop class IV to V rapids in a deep, inaccessible canyon. It should only be run with highly reputable operators, such as local experts Cola de Mono (Click here). Be very aware, if considering a trip here, that guiding this section safely is beyond the powers of inexperienced (cheaper) rafting guides. This is not the place to economise. Do not underestimate this section of river; raft another section in the area with your chosen operator before even considering it. At the time of research, some cheaper operators were looking at this section, and it seems unlikely they will all resist the temptation to run it.
OTHER RIVERS
For rivers further from Cuzco, you definitely need to book with a top-quality outfit using highly experienced rafting guides who know first aid as well as rafting and swift-water rescue techniques, because you will be days away from help in the event of illness or accident.
The Río Apurímac offers three- to 10-day trips through deep gorges and protected rainforest, but can only be run from May to November. The rapids are exhilarating (classes IV and V), and the river goes through wild, remote scenery with deep gorges. Rafters camp on sandy beaches (where sandflies can be a nuisance), and sightings of condors and even pumas have been recorded. Four-day trips are the most relaxed, and avoid the busier campsites, but three-day trips are more commonly offered. This section has limited camping places, and those that exist are becoming increasingly overused. Make sure your outfitter cleans up the campsite and leaves nothing behind.
An even wilder expedition is the 10- to 12-day trip along the demanding Río Tambopata, which can only be run from May to October. You’ll start in the Andes, north of Lake Titicaca, and travel through the heart of the Parque Nacional Bahuaje-Sonene deep in the Amazon jungle. It takes two days just to drive from Cuzco to the put-in point! The first days on the river are full of technically demanding rapids (classes III and IV) in wild Andean scenery, and the trip finishes with a couple of gentle floating days in the rainforest. Tapirs, capybara, caiman, giant otters and jaguars have all been seen by keen-eyed boaters.
The following rafting companies have the best reputations for safety:
Amazonas Explorer (25-2846; www.amazonas-explorer.com) A professional international operator with top-quality equipment and guides, offering rafting trips on the Ríos Apurimac and Tambopata. Private trips on even more remote rivers, such as Río Cotahuasi (Click here) near Arequipa, can also be arranged.
Apumayo (24-6018; www.apumayo.com; Calle Garcilaso 265, Interior 3) Another professional outfitter that takes advance international bookings for Río Tambopata trips. It’s also equipped to take travelers with disabilities.
Mayuc (24-2824; www.mayuc.com; Portal Confiturías 211) This monster operator, very popular with bargain hunters, dwarfs the competition.
River Explorers (77-9619; www.riverexplorers.com; Calle Garcilaso 210, Interior 128) Runs all sorts of sections, including trips of up to six days on Río Apurímac.
Mountain Biking
Mountain-biking tours are a growing industry in Cuzco, and the local terrain is superb. Rental bikes are poor quality and at time of research only rígida (single suspension) models were available for hire. Good new or second-hand bikes are not easy to buy in Cuzco either, as the ever-growing army of local devotees snap them up as soon as they become available. If you’re a serious mountain biker, consider bringing your own bike from home. Selling it in Cuzco is eminently viable.
If you’re an experienced rider, some awesome rides are quickly and easily accessible by public transport. Take the Pisac bus (stash your bike on top)