Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [189]
Head left along Tandapata (16) for the classic Cuzco cobbled experience. Inca irrigation channels run down ancient stairways, and rock carvings adorn walls and random stones in the path. High walls on either side occasionally part for intriguing glimpses of mansions and tenements. Follow your nose uphill to Sacsaywamán.
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COURSES
Cuzco is one of the best places in South America to study Spanish. Shop around – competition is fierce and students benefit with free cultural and social activities. Salsa lessons and cooking nights are more or less ubiquitous.
The standard deal is 20 hours of classes per week, either individual or in groups of up to four people. Most schools will also let you pay by the hour, or study more or less intensively.
Visit your school on a Friday to get tested and assigned to a group for a Monday start, or roll up any time to start individual lessons. All schools can arrange family homestays and volunteer opportunities.
Amauta Spanish School (26-2345; www.amautaspanishschool.com; Suecia 480; individual/group per hr S28/17.50) Big, professional and popular. Also offers Spanish programs in the Sacred Valley and the Amazon jungle.
Amigos (24-2292; www.spanishcusco.com; Zaguan del Cielo B-23; individual/group per hr S30/18) A long-established nonprofit school with an admirable public-service record.
Cervantes Spanish School (50-7051/984-34-8907; cervantesschool@yahoo.es, rocsanac@hotmail.com; Urbanización Fiderando, Camino Real 10; per hr individual/group S21/13.50) Readers rave about lovely Rocsana and her colleagues. Learn to speak Spanish fast from serious, experienced teachers.
Excel Language Center(23-5298; www.excel-spanishlanguageprograms-peru.org; Cruz Verde 336; per hr individual/group S23/13) Highly recommended for its professionalism.
Fairplay (984-78-9252; www.fairplay-peru.org; per hr S13.50-21; Choquechaca 188) A unique nonprofit NGO, Fairplay trains Peruvian single mothers to provide Spanish lessons and homestays. Students pay two-thirds of their class fees directly to their teachers. Individual classes only, priced according to the teacher’s level of experience.
Proyecto Peru (984-68-3016; http://proyectoperucentre.org; Tecsecocha 429; per hr individual/group S25/18) A relaxed and funky haven from the madness of downtown.
San Blas Spanish School (24-7898; www.spanishschoolperu.com; Tandapata 688; per hr individual/group S21/13.50) Students enjoy the informal teaching here, appropriate to the school’s location in the heart of bohemian San Blas.
Try Colegio Andino (24-5415; www.cbc.org.pe/colegioandino; Pampa de la Alianza 164) for Quechua courses.
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TOURS & GUIDES
There are hundreds of registered travel agencies in Cuzco, but things change quickly, so ask other travelers for recommendations. Be aware that many of the small travel agencies clustered around Procuradores and Plateros earn commissions selling trips run by someone else, and this can lead to organizational mix-ups. If the travel agency also sells ponchos, changes money and has an internet cabin in the corner, chances are it’s not operating your tour.
Key questions to ask before handing over your money: Is there an English-speaking guide? What’s included? How big will the group be? What kind of transport is used? How long will everything take? Will you explain a special diet to the cook? If going to Machu Picchu via Ollantaytambo, check whether transport back to Cuzco from Ollantaytambo is included. If you’re unsure about anything, get any and all guarantees in writing, as some agencies will literally say anything to get your business.
Most of the standard tours offered in Cuzco are rushed and overcrowded, and visit sites that you can get to on your own either by walking or via taxi or public transportation. Classic options include a half-day tour of the city and/or nearby ruins, a half-day trip to the Sunday markets