Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [191]
Though the Plaza de Armas is the most central area, you won’t find any bargains there, and accommodations along Av El Sol tend to be bland, expensive and set up for tour groups. As Cuzco is such a compact city, it’s just as convenient to stay in another neighborhood nearby. Hilly San Blas has the best views and is deservedly popular. There are also many options west of the Plaza de Armas around Plaza Regocijo, in the commercial area towards the Mercado Central, and downhill from the center in the streets northeast of Av El Sol.
Many of Cuzco’s guesthouses and hotels are located in charming colonial buildings with interior courtyards, which can echo resoundingly with noise from other guests or the street outside. Many places that offer breakfast start serving as early as 5am to accommodate Inca Trail trekkers and Machu Picchu day-trippers. For this reason, early check-ins are easier here than in other parts of the world and are often available without prior arrangement.
With advance notice, most midrange and top-end places will pick you up for free at the airport, the train station or the bus terminal.
Inquire insistently about hot water for showers before committing yourself to a hotel. It’s often sporadic, even in midrange accommodations, and there’s nothing worse after a multiday trek than a lukewarm shower! In some hotels the hot water is more reliable on some floors than others. It helps to avoid showering at peak times of day, and it’s always worth telling reception if you’re having trouble – they may simply need to flick a switch or hook up a new gas canister.
All places listed claim to offer 24-hour hot-water showers, and unless otherwise noted, midrange and above places include cable TV and internet access. The top hotels all feature rooms with heating and telephone; exceptions are noted in the review. All top-end and some midrange hotels have oxygen tanks available, at a price, for altitude sufferers.
Cuzco’s swanky, top-end hotels are usually booked solid during high season. Reserving through a travel agency or via the hotel’s website may result in better rates than making reservations yourself by phone or walking in off the street.
Central Cuzco
There are no good-value budget choices on the plaza itself, though you’ll find plenty of places within strolling distance. Many of the side streets that climb northwest away from the Plaza towards Sacsaywamán (especially Tigre, Tecsecocha, Suecia, Kiskapata, Resbalosa and 7 Culebras) are bursting with cheap crash pads.
BUDGET
Hostal Andrea (23-6713; andreahostal@hotmail.com; Cuesta Santa Ana 514; s/d without bathroom S12.50/25, s/d S20/35; ) Cuzco’s cheapest, and not bad for the price. Rooms are basic and the shared bathrooms are pretty awful, but the kind, unassuming staff make it a reader favorite.
Hostal Suecia II (23-9757; Tecsecocha 465; s/d/tr S30/50/70, s/d/tr/q without bathroom S20/30/45/60) This long-standing backpacker favorite continues to offer excellent value with central location, friendly owners, a light, bright, flowery patio, decent rooms and a book lending library.
Hospedaje Familiar Munay Wasi (22-3661; Huaynapata 253; dm & s/d S25/35; ) This friendly, homey hospedaje (family inn), housed in a ramshackle adobe building without a single right angle to its name, is run by a kindly family. Room 201, which has huge windows, minibalconies and a magic view of downtown Cuzco just a stone’s throw away, is understandably popular with families.
Loki Hostel (24-3705; www.lokihostel.com; Cuesta Santa Ana 601; dm S23-32, d S80; ) Expats have rescued this 450-year-old national monument from near ruin and turned it into party central. A great place to eat, drink and be merry – sleeping, not so much. On weekends the on-site bar features local bands and DJs good enough to attract locals and expats for a night out.
WalkOn Inn (23-5065; www.walkoninn.com; Suecia 504; dm S25, s & d S60; ) Perched on a sunny green corner, this tranquil little place is only a five-minute puff up from the Plaza de Armas but feels almost like the country. Gorgeous