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Santo Domingo 259; s & d/ste S1300/1640; ) Set in a huge, opulently furnished colonial mansion with a fine interior courtyard, the Libertador boasts Inca foundations. Other parts of the building date back to the 16th century, when Francisco Pizarro was an occupant. It’s as luxurious and beautiful as you’d expect at this price. Rooms in the newer section of the gigantic complex have less personality than those of competitor Monasterio; however, at the time of research a major remodeling was about to begin – with the avowed intention of making Libertador Cuzco’s undisputed landmark hotel.

Further Afield

Lorenzo’s Lodge (22-3357; www.freehostal.com; Paradero Chosas, Barrio de Callanca, subiendo por Santa Ana; accommodation free; ) Local identity Lorenzo Cahuana gives free accommodation – it’s basic, with bunk beds, but who’s complaining? It’s his bold and eccentric way of publicizing his Inka Jungle Trail tour (Click here), but there’s no obligation. Mad dreamer or savvy self-promoter? You be the judge. The lodge is a 10-minute, S5 taxi ride from town, with lovely bushy views and space for a couple of tents. Reservations are essential.

Hostal San Juan de Dios (24-0135; www.sanjuandedioscusco.com; Manzanares 264, Urb Manuel Prado; s/d/tr/q with breakfast S105/135/165/195; ) A truly heart-warming place, this spotless guesthouse with modern decor is part of a nonprofit enterprise that supports a hospital clinic and also provides job opportunities for young people with disabilities. All of the quiet, carpeted rooms have large windows; most have twin beds, though there’s one matrimonial double. The wonderful staff can help with everything from laundry services to making international phone calls. Discounts may be available for online reservations. It’s a 30-minute walk or S3 taxi ride from the city center, near shops and amenities.

Torre Dorada Residencial (24-1698; Los Cipreses N-5, Residencial Huancaro; s/d/tr with breakfast S255/315/360; ) Torre Dorada is a modern, family-run hotel in a quiet residential district close to the bus terminal. It’s recommended for the high quality of service, including free pickup from and drop off to the airport, train stations and the town center. Fluent English is spoken.

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EATING

Cuzco’s location, nearly dropping off the eastern edge of the Andes, gives it access to an unbelievable range of produce. The Incas had it figured out, working the precipitous altitude changes for all they were worth, to create terraces where stodgy highlanders such as potatoes and quinoa grew practically on top of colorful jungle delicacies such as coca, avocado and ají picante (hot chili). Few food stores in the world offer the variety on offer in Cuzco’s humblest street market.

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HOSTEL WITH HEART

The heart-warming Hospedaje Turismo Caith (23-3595; www.caith.org; Urb Ucchullo Alto, Pasaje Sto Toribio N4; r per person with breakfast €20; ) must be the best deal in Cuzco. Not only does it boast beautiful buildings, gorgeous grounds and one of the best views in town, but it supports and shares a home with Centro Yanapanakusun. This girls’ home is a real eye-opener about life in Peru.

In many tiny rural communities, poverty means that young girls are sent to work in the city. With no experience away from their families and limited, if any, Spanish, they’re extremely vulnerable. Economic abuse is commonplace – some cama adentro (live-in) servants receive food and a wage of as little as S90 per month, with half a day off a week. Violence and sexual abuse also occur, and are generally what prompts girls to seek refuge at Centro Yanapanakusun, which houses up to 30 girls aged under 14.

Girls as young as eight have knocked on the door; one current resident was working peeling potatoes in a restaurant at the age of four. Often they lose touch with their families: the centre’s Italian founder, Vittoria Savio, stumbled into this world by chance, when a woman told her of her daughter who had gone out to work at the age of eight, 23 years earlier, and not been seen by