Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [213]
There are very few places to stay in the city center. Most hotels are lined up along the highway, west of town and the bus terminal, on the way to Ollantaytambo.
BUDGET
Los Cedros (20-1416; www.campingloscedros.com; campsites per person S9, house from S300) This pastoral campground is about 4km above the town on winding country roads. There’s also a fully furnished two-story house for hire in the grassy grounds. Sometimes hippies and electronic-music lovers converge here for open-air Full Moon parties.
Hostal los Perales (20-1151; Pasaje Arenales 102; s/d/tr S20/35/60) Tucked away up a dusty country lane near the bus terminal, family-run Los Perales is a hidden treasure. Behind its high wall lies a romantic overgrown orchard, where you could lose yourself for days. Rooms are basic but sunny and spotless, the owners are genuinely kind and caring, and English is spoken. Highly recommended.
Quinta los Geranios (20-1093; geraniosurubamba@yahoo.com; Conchatupa s/n; s/d/tr/q S45/60/70/105) Los Geranios has airy, spotless rooms and a breathtaking river view from its open-air staircase. Both the hotel and on-site restaurant (mains from S13), open noon to 5pm, are popular and good value.
MIDRANGE
Las Chullpas (984-68-5713; www.chullpas.uhupi.com; Pumahuanca Valley; s/d/tr/q S80/130/280/200; ) Hidden 3km above town, these woodland cottages with fireplaces and private bathrooms make for the perfect getaway. The site is nestled beneath a mountain and thick eucalyptus trees. There are hammocks, an open kitchen where vegetarian food is available, and a sweat lodge (available on request). Much of the food served is grown organically at the hotel’s own minifarm, and efforts are made towards composting and recycling. The affable Chilean owner also guides treks, especially to the Lares Valley. Highly recommended.
Quinta Patawasi (20-1386; www.quintapatawasi.com; s/d/tr/q S115/255/330/405; ) On a small street right behind Hostal el Maizal, Quinta is a characterful spot recommended for its extremely cheerful, attentive service. English is spoken.
Hostal el Maizal (20-1194; maizal@speedy.com.pe; r from S160; ) West of the bus terminal just past Km 73, El Maizal is a quiet place with a large grassy garden, comfortable, slightly shabby rooms and airy bathrooms. German and English are spoken.
TOP END
K’uychi Rumi (20-1169; www.urubamba.com; d/q S470/810; ) Between Km 74 and Km 75 on the main highway, more than 2km west of town, you’ll find a half-dozen rustic two-story private cottages built of colorful clay. Each comes with its own kitchenette, fireplace, terrace balcony and two bedrooms. Buffet breakfast costs US$5. The name means ‘Rainbow Stone’ in Quechua.
Río Sagrado Hotel (20-1631; www.riosagradohotel.com; s/d US$600/800, 3-bedroom villa US$3500; ) Beverly Hills meets St Tropez meets…something else incredibly luxurious. This place has to be seen to be believed. Brand-new and dripping with designer features, it nestles into the riverside, its modest, jasmine-smelling, water-tinkling exterior coyly downplaying the opulence within. On top of all the luxury you’d expect at this price, rooms boast showers with picture windows, underfloor heating, handmade designer furniture, and high-modern minimalist elegance. Public facilities include two Jacuzzis, an electric sauna, a woven marble bar, sculptures by well-known artists, and – wait for it – breakfast in a hot-air balloon suspended above the lawn. Headshakingly fabulous.
Eating & Drinking
Many hotels have buffet-style restaurants that are filled by tour groups, and there are a few touristic quintas (houses serving typical Andean food) along the highway east of the grifo.
Tres Keros Restaurant Grill & Bar (20-1701; cnr hwy & Señor de Torrechayoc; mains from S26; lunch & dinner) Garrulous chef Ricardo Behar dishes up rich, flavorful novoandina fare to pique any gourmet’s interest. He also smokes his own trout and imports steak from Argentina – he’s serious about his food, and you will be too after you try it. It’s 500m west of town.
Huacatay (20-1790; Arica 620; mains from S30; 1-9:30pm