Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [215]
The Chinchero markets, held on Tuesday, Thursday and especially Sunday, are less touristy than those in Pisac and well worth checking out. On Sunday, traditionally dressed locals descend from the hills for the produce market, where the ancient practice of trueco (bartering) still takes place; this is a rare opportunity to observe genuine bartering.
There are artisan workshops on every street, the best of which is the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales on Manzanares.
Sleeping & Eating
Hospedaje Mi Piuray (30-6029; Garcilaso 187; s/d/tr/q S30/50/90/120, s without bathroom S25) A helpful, welcoming family hostelry with kitchen access and a sunny courtyard. At time of research a bar was being constructed here, so evenings in Chinchero may be about to get a little more lively.
La Casa de Barro (30-6031; cnr hwy & Miraflores; s/d/tr/q S105/135/165/195) A romantic or family retreat par excellence, with curvy, rambling stairways and nooks, an overgrown garden, and airy, jazzily tasteful rooms with big fluffy quilts. Architect-designed with lots of Italian influence, it’s classy at the same time as being playful and colorful. It is also well set up for children, with a playroom and swings.
The restaurants at these two hotels are the only places to eat out in Chinchero.
Getting There & Away
Combis and colectivos traveling between Cuzco (S2/S6, one hour) and Urubamba (S2/S6, 30 minutes) stop on the corner of the highway and Calle Manco Capac II; just flag down whatever comes along. They will also drop you off at intermediate points such as the turnoff to Maras.
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MORAY AND MARAS
The impressively deep amphitheater-like terracing of Moray (admission S10; dawn to dusk), reached via the small town of Maras, is a fascinating spectacle. Different levels of concentric terraces are carved into a huge earthen bowl, each layer of which has its own microclimate, according to how deep into the bowl it is. For this reason, some theorize that the Incas used them as a kind of laboratory to determine the optimal conditions for growing crops of each species. There are three bowls, one of which has been planted with various crops as a kind of living museum.
Though refreshingly off the beaten path, this site is not challenging to reach. Take any transportation bound between Urubamba and Cuzco via Chinchero and ask to be let off at the Maras/Moray turnoff. Taxis usually wait at this turnoff to take tourists to Moray and back for around S30, or both Moray and Salinas and back to the turnoff for around S50. If you’re coming in the depths of low season, it’s worth calling the Maras taxi company (75-5454, 984-95-6063) to ensure that a taxi is waiting for you at the turnoff. A taxi from Urubamba to visit both Salinas and Moray costs around S80.
You could also tackle the 4km walk to the village of Maras yourself. From there, follow the road another 9km to Moray.
From Maras, you can walk or bike to Salinas, about 6km away. The trail starts behind the church. The Maras taxi company rents out bikes for this purpose – this is a fun, fast, single-track ride.
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OLLANTAYTAMBO
084 / pop 700 / elev 2800m
Dominated by two massive Inca ruins, the quaint village of Ollantaytambo (known to locals and visitors alike as Ollanta) is the best surviving example of Inca city planning, with narrow cobblestone streets that have been continuously inhabited since the 13th century. After the hordes passing through on their way to Machu Picchu die down around late morning, Ollanta is a lovely place to be. It’s perfect for wandering the mazy, narrow byways, past stone buildings and babbling irrigation channels, pretending you’ve stepped back in time. It also offers access to excellent hiking and biking.
There are a couple of internet cafes and ATMs in and around Plaza de Armas. There are no banks, but several places change money.
Sights & Activities
OLLANTAYTAMBO RUINS
The huge, steep terraces that guard Ollantaytambo’s spectacular Inca