Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [242]
Tarma Tourism Week Another fiesta, held near the end of July, featuring dress-up parades, music, dancing and much raucous merriment.
El Señor de los Milagros (Christ of Miracles) This annual fiesta takes place in late October; the main feast days are the 18th, 28th and 29th. This is another good opportunity to see processions over beautiful, flower-petal carpets.
Sleeping
Choices in Tarma itself are not impressive: just some unspectacular budget options and one expensive resort hotel. A short ride from town, some attractive farmhouse B&Bs provide better accommodation.
BUDGET
The following hotels have hot water, usually in the morning, though they may claim all day.
Hospedaje Central (32-2625; Huánuco 614; s with/without bathroom S30/15, d S40/25) This old but adequate hotel has an astronomical observatory. Rooms are dark but staff is friendly and bundles of tourist information are available.
Hospedaje El Dorado (32-1914; fax 32-1634; Huánuco 488; s with/without bathroom S30/15, d S60/25) Sizable, clean, occasionally worn rooms face a leafy internal courtyard and come with cable TV and hot showers. Friendly staff and an in-house cafeteria help make this one of central Tarma’s best sleeping options.
Hostal El Marquéz (32-2731; Huaraz at Lima; s/d/tr S20/35/45) This cavernous place has an aura of faded colonial grandeur and huge rooms, some sporting enough beds to sleep a small army. All have private bathrooms but only larger rooms have hot water.
Hospedaje El Mirador (32-1988; Limaymanta 205; s/d S30/40) Large, light rooms get prime views over Tarma as well as hot water and cable TV.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Hacienda Santa María (32-1232; www.haciendasantamaria.com; Vista Alegre 1249; s/d S105/170) Calle Vlenrich becomes Vista Alegre to the northeast of town and after 1km arrives at this charming hacienda (ranch) accommodation: a white-walled, 18th-century colonial house with wooden balconies perfect for surveying the surrounding lush, flower-abundant grounds. Rustic rooms are full of old furniture and rates include a generous breakfast. There is also a clutch of alternative local tours that the owners can arrange.
Hacienda La Florida (34-1041, 01-344-1358; www.haciendalaflorida.com; s/d S108/174) Located 6km from Tarma on the Acobamba road, this 250-year-old working hacienda is now a B&B owned by a welcoming Peruvian-German couple, Pepe and Inge. Rooms boast wooden parquet floors and private bathrooms and there is attractive space for campers (per person S14). A filling breakfast is included in the price; homemade dinners are S20 per person. Visitors can partake in farm life or in various two-day workshops (minimum of six people) on relaxation techniques and cooking classes. El Señor de Muruhuay sanctuary is a one-hour hike away.
Los Portales (32-1411; www.hotelportalestarma.com; Castilla 512; s/d/ste S175/250/480; ) Set in secluded gardens in the west of town, this hotel features a children’s playground and 45 standard hotel rooms with cable TV and wi-fi internet access. Rates include continental breakfast and the restaurant provides room service. The two suites have Jacuzzis. This is the best choice for accommodation in Tarma town itself.
Eating
There are disappointingly few good restaurants. Sellers of salted popcorn and other snacks tend to congregate on the west side of the plaza.
Restaurant Chavín de Grima (32-1892, 32-1341; Lima 270; meals S7-10; 7am-7pm) For breakfasts and cheap set lunches on the Plaza de Armas you won’t go far wrong by heading to this popular place decorated with San Pedro de Cajas wall hangings. When there are any gringos in town, this is where they hang.
Restaurant Señorial/El Braserito (32-3334; Huánuco 138/140; mains S5-12; 8am-3pm & 6-11pm) Two restaurants rolled into one (just one side is opened if it’s slow), this is the local favorite, judging by the nonstop crowds. Sprightly service, huge portions and cheerful surroundings with