Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [256]
If all else fails, you can bus it to Huancayo and backtrack by road or rail (when functioning; at the time of research, the rail track was due to reopen in April 2010) to Huancavelica.
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The shadow of Ayacucho’s dark past has long been lifted but travelers are only just rediscovering its treasures. Richly decorated churches dominate the vivid cityscape alongside peach- and pastel-colored colonial buildings hung with wooden balconies. Amongst the numerous city festivities, Ayacucho boasts Peru’s premier Semana Santa celebrations while in the surrounding mountains lie some of the country’s most significant archaeological attractions.
Perhaps Ayacucho’s most alluring feature is the authenticity with which it pulls off its charms. Its development has been tasteful, its commercialization blissfully limited, and if you take to the pedestrianized, cobbled city central streets early enough, it is easy to imagine yourself transported back several centuries to its colonial heyday. That said, these days designer-clad students and businesspeople are increasingly in evidence and behind many colonial facades are plenty of sumptuous accommodation options, suave shops and restaurants. What is clear is that Peru’s most enticing Andean city after Cuzco is experiencing a resurgence – and one well worth witnessing.
History
Some of the first signs of human habitation in Peru were allegedly discovered in the Pikimachay caves, near Ayacucho (there is nothing of interest to be seen there).
Five hundred years before the rise of the Incas, the Wari dominated the Peruvian highlands and established their capital 22km northeast of Ayacucho (Click here). The city’s original name was San Juan de la Frontera de Huamanga and grew rapidly after its founding in 1540 as Spanish sought to defend it against attack from Manco Inca. Ayacucho played a major part in the battles for Peruvian independence and a huge nearby monument marks the site of the Battle of Ayacucho, fought in 1824, where 5800 patriots overcame 8200 Spanish to end colonial rule.
Ayacucho’s first road link with the Peruvian coast was not finished until 1924; as late as 1960 there were only two buses and a few dozen vehicles in the city. However, completion of a paved road link with Lima in 1999 has turned it to face the 21st century. Following Guzmán’s capture in 1992, Ayacucho is once again a safe place to visit. The populace doesn’t discuss the dark days of the 1980s much and welcomes travelers with enthusiasm and good cheer. (For more on this history, Click here.)
Orientation
The Plaza de Armas is also known as Plaza Mayor de Huamanga. The street names of the four sides of the plaza, clockwise from the east (with the cathedral), are Portal Municipal, Portal Independencia, Portal Constitución and Portal Unión.
Information
For good general information, try www.peru-ayacucho.com.
EMERGENCY
Police (31-2055, 31-6245; Jirón 28 de Julio 325; 24hr)
Policía de Turismo (31-7846; Jirón 2 de Mayo 100; 7:30am-8pm)
INTERNET ACCESS
There are many options.
Hueco Internet (31-5528; Portal Constitución 9) Among the better ones, it has newer machines and phone booths where you can make cheap calls overseas.
LAUNDRY
Lavandería Arco Iris (Bellido 322) Provides both wash-and-dry and dry-cleaning services.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Clínica de La Esperanza (31-7436; Independencia 355; 8am-8pm) English is spoken.
Hospital Central (31-2180/1; Independencia 335; 24hr) Provides basic services.
Inka Farma (31-8240, 83-6273; Jirón 28 de Julio 250; 7am-10:30pm) Pharmacy.
MONEY
BCP (31-4102; Portal Unión 28) Visa ATM.
Interbank (31-2480; Jirón 9 de Diciembre 183)
Money changers (Portal Constitución) On the southwest corner