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By Root 1303 0

the key settlement in the north of the empire, and developed as a major way station accordingly. The Incas chose Huánuco Viejo, 150km west, as their regional stronghold but the exposed location prompted the Spanish to move the city to its current scenic setting on the banks of the Río Huallaga in 1541. Little is left of its colonial past but the profusion of archaeological remains in the surrounding mountains is the main reason to linger in this busy little place. Locals also boast Huánuco’s perfect elevation gives it the best climate in Peru: indeed, after the wild climes of the altiplano, it seems positively balmy. With several good accommodation options it certainly makes for a convenient and tempting stopover on the Lima–Pucallpa jungle route. Nearby is one of Peru’s oldest Andean archaeological sites, the Temple of Kotosh (aka the Temple of the Crossed Hands), while further up in the hills lie the still more impressive ancient ruins of Huánuco Viejo and Tantamayo.

Orientation

Huánuco is easy enough to find your way around on foot. Most transport options arrive and depart from within 200m of the main square: hotels and restaurants are all within three blocks of here too.

Information

Almost identical sets of internet cabinas grace most blocks.

Banco Continental (51-3348; Jirón 2 de Mayo 1137) Has a pair of ATMs.

BCP (51-2213; Jirón 2 de Mayo 1005) With a Visa ATM.

Locutorio Público (Jirón 28 de Julio 810) Make cheap overseas phone calls here.

Tourist office (51-2980; Jirón 28 de Julio 940; 8am-1:30pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri) Pretty useless.

Sights & Activities

The archaeological site of the Temple of Kotosh (admission incl guided tour S5; 8am-6pm) is also known as the Temple of the Crossed Hands because of the life-sized mud molding of a pair of crossed hands, which is the site’s highlight. The molding dates to about 2000 BC and is now at Lima’s Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historía del Perú (Click here); a replica remains. Little is known about Kotosh, one of the most ancient of Andean cultures. The temple site is not in great shape, but is easily visited by taxi (S12, including a 30-minute wait and return) or the bus to La Unión. In the hills 2km above the site, Quillaromi cave has impressive prehistoric paintings. Kotosh is about 5km west of town off the La Unión road.

About 25km south of Huánuco is Ambo, noted for its distilleries producing aguardiente, a locally popular sugarcane liquor. You might be able to try/buy some.

The Iglesia San Francisco (cnr Huallayco & Beraún) is Huánuco’s most appealing church, with lavish baroque-style altars and interesting escuela cuzqueña paintings.

Mya Tours (962-60-4331; General Prado 815) arranges regional excursions.

Festivals & Events

Huánuco’s most unusual festival is the Dance of the Blacks, held each January 1st, 6th and 18th. Revelers remember the slaves brought to work in the area’s mines by donning black masks, dressing up brightly and drinking until the early hours.

Sleeping

BUDGET

On the southeast side of the plaza is a glut of uninspiring options offering basic accommodation with a plaza price tag.

Hostal Huánuco (51-2050; Huánuco 777; s/d S25/35, s without bathroom S15) This traditional mansion simply exudes character, with old-fashioned tiled floors, a 2nd-floor terrace overlooking a garden and hall walls covered with art and old newspaper clippings. Delightful rooms contain characterful old furniture and have comfortable beds. Showers are hot but can take an age to warm up, so ask in advance.

Hotel Caribe (51-9708; fax 51-3753; Huánuco 546; s/d S16/20, s/d without bathroom S13/15) Service is surly, showers are hot, cable TV is included in the price of the doubles and there’s a karaoke cafe downstairs.

Sosa (51-5803; hotelsosa@hotmail.com; General Prado 872; s/d S30/40) The main draw at this new five-story hotel are the huge, tiled hot-water bath/showers that most of the clean, tastefully decorated rooms come with. One room has a Jacuzzi; there’s a small restaurant below.

Hotel Imperial (51-4758; hotelimperial_hco@hotmail.com; Huánuco