Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [270]
Also in the park is La Cueva de las Lechuzas (the Cave of the Owls), which, despite its name, is known for the colony of oilbirds that lives inside. In addition, there are stalactites and stalagmites, bats, parrots and other birds around the cave entrance, but the oilbirds are the main attraction.
The caves are about 6km away from Tingo María; taxis can take you there. There is a S5 national-park fee and guides can show you around. The best times to visit the park are in the morning, when sunlight shines into the cave mouth, or dusk, when the oilbirds emerge. Don’t be tempted to use your flashlight to see the birds, as it disturbs their sleeping and breeding patterns.
There are a myriad of great bathing spots in and around the park. Recommended are the San Jacintillo Medicinal Springs, 1km before the Cave of the Owls, Velo de las Ninfas and Cueva de los Tambos, 9km south of Tingo and the Laguna el Milagro, 35km north of town. There is a nominal entrance fee of S3 to S5 at each spot.
Sleeping
Showers are cold unless stated otherwise.
BUDGET
Hostal Roosevelt (56-2685; Pratto 399; s/d S20/30, s/d without bathroom S10/20) This neat little hostelry has a cool black-and-white-tiled floor leading to a series of smallish but very clean rooms. The color scheme here really is odd (kitsch purples and yellows) but you won’t go wrong for the price. Rooms with cable TV are S10 extra.
Hostal Palacio (56-2319; www.hostal-palacio.com; Raimondi 158; s with/without bathroom S25/10, d S30/20) Now sporting four floors of rooms, the Palacio is a good budget choice. Staff are helpful and decent-sized rooms surround a plant-filled courtyard and cafe: those with bathrooms get cable TV, fans and phones. Guests staying up top can enjoy great views of Tingo.
Hotel Nueva York (/fax 56-2406; Alameda Perú 553; s/d from S25/40) Spacious rooms have fans and showers hooked up to rooftop tanks so water gets warm come afternoon. Cable TV is extra. There is also laundry service and cafeteria, where you can breakfast for another S5. Rooms are set back from the road and quiet.
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DANGERS NEAR TINGO MARÍA
Unfortunately for a town in need of an image boost, the area around Tingo María is not without its dangers. There have been recent reports of travelers being robbed and raped at gunpoint en route to destinations in the Tingo María National Park. It is strongly recommended that you do not venture into the countryside around Tingo without a guide and ensure you return before dark. The Cave of the Owls has police protection, but the road there is still risky, as are more remote destinations.
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Hotel Malkiel (56-2877; hotel_malkiel@hotmail.com; Alameda Perú 223; s/d S25/40) Four floors of large, neutrally decorated, solid rooms with fan, cable TV and reading lights in each. Some of the doubles have Jacuzzis (S60).
La Gran Muralla (56-2934; www.hotel-lagranmuralla.com; Raimondi 277; s/d S35/60) This relatively new, breezy riverside complex has a light, bright feel to it, exemplified by its welcoming lobby painted with jungle scenes. Its modern, pleasantly furnished rooms are of a decent size and have cable TV, fans and phones. From the 2nd-floor terrace you can gaze over the river to the airport and the jungle beyond.
Hotel Internacional (56-3035; hinternacional_TM2@hotmail.com; Raimondi 232; s/d S40/60) Close to the bus stations, this is unquestionably a pleasant choice and beckons the jaded viajero (traveler) with its cool, tiled interior and well-designed rooms. Though a tad dark, these have 24-hour hot water, cable TV and phone.
MIDRANGE
Villa Jennifer (962-69-5059, 79-4714; www.villajennifer.net; Castillo Grande Km 3.4; s/d S70/90; ) Located north of the airport, and handy now that flights have recommenced, is this peaceful tropical hacienda and lodge, run by a Danish-Peruvian couple. They have done wonders out of a lush expanse of tropical bushland bounded by rivers on two sides. Suave rustic accommodations range from simple rooms with shared bathrooms to airy mini-homes