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extra passengers. There are frequent buses to Lima (S18 to S35, six hours), to Trujillo (S15, three hours) and buses to Huaraz (check which route they take; Yungay Express and Transport Huandoy have buses that take the scenic route via the Callán Pass) at 6:30am, 10:30am and 10:30pm (S18 to S22.50, five to six hours). Nearby Tepsa (41-2658; Ormeño 546) has comfortable buses to Lima (S28 to S45), a direct 8:30pm bus all the way to Tumbes (S64, 11 hours) and a 10:15pm bus to Cajamarca (S60, seven hours).

TORTUGAS

This small beach resort hugs a diminutive, calm bay about 22km northwest of Casma, off the Panamericana at Km 392. There’s a decent, pebbly beach with clean water, and pleasant swimming in the bay. It’s a popular weekending spot, and a visit can be combined with an all-day Sechín tour from Casma. Stay at the Hotel Farol Beach Inn (968-2540; s/d S40/65), which has big rooms with hot water and top vistas from its airy communal areas. Colectivo taxis to Tortugas (S2, 20 minutes) leave frequently from the Plaza de Armas in Casma.

CHIMBOTE

043 / pop 204,000

Chimbote is Peru’s largest fishing port – and with fish-processing factories lining the roads in and out of Chimbote you’ll probably smell it before you see it. The odor of fermenting fish may take a while to get used to, but the quiet, open plaza in the town’s heart is less overwhelming. The fishing industry has declined from its 1960s glory days due to overfishing, but you’ll still see flotillas moored offshore every evening. This roguish port town is not a tourist destination and there’s little to do, but you may have to stay overnight if you’re catching an early morning bus to Huaraz via the hair-raising Cañón del Pato route.

Information

Internet cabins are found on Aguirre to the south of Pardo. Tourist information is impossible to come by.

Banco Continental (Bolognesi)

BCP (Bolognesi)

Oficina de migraciónes (immigration office; 32-2481; Centro Cívico Comercial de Chimbote, 2nd fl) Does visa extensions.

Police (32 4485; cnr Palacios & Prado)

Post office (32-2943; cnr Tumbes & Prado; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Scotiabank (Bolognesi)

Sleeping

There are lots of hotels in Chimbote, though nothing in the top-end range.

BUDGET

Hostal Chimbote (34-4721; Pardo 205; s/d S18/24) The cell-like rooms here have windows onto the corridor, but it’s an acceptable cheapie that boasts cold-water showers and TV. There are cheaper rooms without showers or the aforementioned TV.

Hostal Residencial el Parque (34-1552, 34-5572; Palacios 309; s/d S30/45) With Spartan, windowless rooms, this friendly, secure venture is right on the Plaza de Armas and continues to be a popular spot for passing extranjeros (foreigners). Hot showers and cable TV come as standard.

Tany (32-3441; Palacios 553; s/d with breakfast S39/65) Though it’s a little spendier than most budget options, Tany has massive and immaculately kept rooms with polished floorboards, a quiet location and a free breakfast, giving it a decent bang-for-buck ratio.

Hotel San Felipe (32-3401; Pardo 514; s/d with breakfast S38/56) The clean rooms here are reached by elevator and have strong hot showers and cable TV. Be sure to take your continental breakfast on the 5th-floor terrace with plaza views. A glitzy downstairs casino will help you live out your Las Vegas card-shark fantasies.

MIDRANGE

Hostal D’Carlo (34-4044, /fax 32-1047; Villavicencio 376; s/d with breakfast S75/98) Cheerfully painted walls, nice bedspreads, fans and cable TV welcome you here. Rooms are spacious but the bathrooms (with hot water) can be Lilliputian. There’s room service from the hotel cafe between 7am to 10pm, and some rooms overlook the plaza.

Hostal Chifa Canton (34-4388; Bolognesi 498; s/d with breakfast S84/98) The town’s best hotel – remember, we’re talking about Chimbote here – Hostal Chifa Canton has large, carpeted rooms with modern amenities. Some rooms look onto the sea. It has a good chifa (Chinese restaurant) with lackluster service and a pool hall on the premises.

Real Hotel Gran Chimú (32-3721, 32-8104; Gálvez 109;