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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [279]

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in neoclassical style, it has beautiful window gratings, slender interior columns and gold moldings on the ceilings. General Juan Manuel Iturregui lived here after he famously proclaimed independence.

Colonial art enthusiasts will not want to miss the Carmelite museum in the Iglesia del Carmen (cnr Colón & Bolívar; museum admission S2.50; 9am-1pm Mon-Sat).

The Museo de Arqueología (24-9322; Junín 682; adult S5; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) displays a rundown of Peruvian history from 12,000 BC to the present day. There’s also a small but interesting collection of artifacts from the Huaca de la Luna. The museum is housed in La Casa Risco, a restored 17th-century mansion.

Casona Orbegoso (Orbegoso 553; 9:30am-1pm & 4:30-7pm Tue-Sun), named after a former president of Peru, is a beautiful 18th-century manor with a collection of well-worn art and period furnishings. On the opposite side of Bolívar, Iglesia de San Agustín has a finely gilded high altar and dates from 1558. Further southwest is Iglesia de Belén and north of here is another mansion, Casa de Mayorazgo de Facala (Pizarro 314; 9:30am-1pm & 4-7 Mon-Fri), which houses Scotiabank.

NORTH & WEST OF PLAZA DE ARMAS

Northeast of the cathedral is Casa Ganoza Chopitea (Independencia 630), also known as Casa de los Léones, which is considered to be the best mansion of the colonial period in Trujillo. The tourist police are housed here. Good contemporary Peruvian art is sometimes shown here, as are some rather arcane pieces that you may never have a chance to see elsewhere. Hours vary. Further north of the mansion is Iglesia de Santa Clara.

The Museo Cassinelli (N de Piérola 601; admission S8; 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sun) is a private archaeological collection housed in the basement of a gas station. The museum is fascinating, with hundreds of pieces that certainly don’t belong under a gritty petrol dispensary. Have a look at the bird-shaped whistling pots, which produce clear notes when air is blown into them (ask the curator to show you). Superficially the pots are very similar, but when they are blown each produces a completely different note that corresponds to the calls of the male and female birds.

Museo de Zoología (San Martín 368; admission S2; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat), just west of the Plaza de Armas, is mainly a taxidermic collection of Peruvian animals (many so artificially stuffed they look like nightmarish caricatures of their former selves).

There are three other interesting churches near the Plaza de Armas; Iglesia de la Compañia (Independencia), Iglesia de Santa Ana (cnr Mansiche & Zepita) and Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Larco).

Activities

The aid organization Bruce Peru (23-2664; www.volunteertrujillo.com; San Martín 444) helps kids that are unable to attend school. Volunteer opportunities are best arranged beforehand, though short-term, walk-in volunteers are sometimes needed.

Tours & Guides

There are dozens of tour agencies. Some agencies supply guides who speak English but don’t know much about the area, or vice versa. Entrance fees are not included in the tours prices listed below. Friendly and recommended Trujillo Tours (23-3091; Almagro 301; 7:30am-1pm & 4-8pm) has three- to four-hour tours to Chan Chan and Huanchaco (S20), and to Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (S20), as well as city tours (S18). Some English, French and German is spoken. Established Chan Chan Tours (24-3016; Independencia 431; 7am-1:30pm & 4-8pm), right on the square, organizes similar trips for S20 to S50 per person (two-person minimum). Its guides speak some English.

If you prefer your own guide, it’s best to go with a certified official guide who knows the area well. Ask at iPerú (29 4561; Almagro & Independencia; 8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) for a list of certified guides and contact details.

Festivals & Events

Fiesta de la Marinera This is the national marinera contest; held in the last week in January.

El Festival Internacional de la Primavera (International Spring Festival) Trujillo’s major festival is celebrated with parades, national dancing competitions

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