Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [284]
Five major archaeological sites can be easily reached from Trujillo by local bus or taxi. Two of these are principally Moche, dating from about 200 BC to AD 850. The other three, from the Chimú culture, date from about AD 850 to 1500. The recently excavated Moche ruin of La Huaca el Brujo (60km from Trujillo) can also be visited, but it’s not as convenient.
Joining a tour to the archaeological sites isn’t a bad idea, even for budget travelers. The ruins will be more interesting and meaningful with a good guide. Alternately, you could hire an on-site guide.
The entrance ticket for Chan Chan is also valid for the Chimú sites of La Huaca Esmeralda and La Huaca Arco Iris, as well as the Chan Chan museum, but it must be used within two days. All sites are open from 9am to 4:30pm and tickets are sold at every site, except La Huaca Esmeralda.
Chan Chan
Built around AD 1300 and covering 36 sq km, Chan Chan (adult S11; 9am-4:30pm) is the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas, and the largest adobe city in the world. At the height of the Chimú empire, it housed an estimated 60,000 inhabitants and contained a vast wealth of gold, silver and ceramics. The wealth remained more or less undisturbed after the city was conquered by the Incas, but once the Spaniards hit the stage the looting began. Within a few decades little but gold dust remained. Remnants of what was found can be seen in museums nearby. Although Chan Chan must have been a dazzling sight at one time, devastating El Niño floods and heavy rainfall have severely eroded the mud walls of the city. Today the most impressive aspect of the site is its sheer size; you’ll need an active imagination to fill in the details.
The Chimú capital consisted of nine major cities, also called royal compounds. Each contained a royal burial mound filled with vast quantities of funerary offerings, including dozens of sacrificed young women and chambers full of ceramics, weavings and jewelry. The Tschudi complex, named after a Swiss naturalist, is the only section of Chan Chan that’s partially restored. It is possible that other areas will open in the future, but until they are properly policed and signed, you run the risk of being mugged if you visit them.
At the Tschudi complex you’ll find an entrance area with tickets, snacks, souvenirs, bathrooms, the small Museo de Sitio Chan Chan (admission free with Chan Chan ticket) with information in English and Spanish and guides (S18). The complex is well marked by fish-shaped pointers, so you can see everything without a guide if you prefer. Your entry ticket for Chan Chan is also valid for the Chimú sites of La Huaca Esmeralda and La Huaca Arco Iris.
Combis to Chan Chan leave Trujillo every few minutes, passing the corners of España and Ejército, and España and Industrial.
TSCHUDI COMPLEX
Also called the Palacio Nik-An, the complex’s centerpiece is a massive restored Ceremonial Courtyard, whose 4m-thick interior walls are mostly decorated with recreated geometric designs. The ground-level designs closest to the door, representing three or four sea otters, are the only originals left and are slightly rougher looking than the modern work. A ramp at the far side of the high-walled plaza enters the second level (early wheelchair access?). Though all the Chan Chan walls have crumbled with time, parts of Tschudi’s walls once stood more than 10m high.
Head out of the Ceremonial Courtyard and walk along the outside wall, one of the most highly decorated and best restored of Tschudi’s walls. The adobe friezes show waves of fish rippling along the entire length of the wall above a line of seabirds. Despite their time-worn appearance, the few rougher-looking originals retain a fluidity and character somehow lacking in the contemporary version.
At the end of