Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [310]
Hostal Merlin (25-6188; s/d with breakfast S69/99) has 12 massive rooms with handsome stone-flagged floors, private cold showers and balconies with ocean views. This cavernous hotel doesn’t get many visitors.
Cabo Blanco is several kilometers down a winding road from the Pan-American Hwy town of Las Olas. Catch a ride in one of the regular pickup trucks that ply the route (S2, 20 minutes).
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MÁNCORA
073 / pop 9700
Peru’s worst-kept secret, Máncora is the place to see and be seen along the Peruvian coast – in the summer months foreigners flock here to rub sunburned shoulders with the frothy cream of the Peruvian jet set. It’s not hard to see why – Peru’s best sandy beach stretches for several kilometers in the sunniest region of the country, while dozens of plush resorts and their budget-conscious brethren offer up rooms within meters of the lapping waves. On shore, a plethora of restaurants provides fresh seafood straight off the boat as fuel for the long, lazy days. The consistently good surf draws a sun-bleached, board-toting bunch and raucous nightlife keeps visitors busy after the sun dips into the sea in a ball of fiery flames. However, even though it has seen recent explosive growth, Máncora has somehow managed to cling to its fishing community roots.
Located about halfway between Talara and Tumbes, Máncora has the Pan-American Hwy passing right through its middle, within 100m of the surf. During the December to March summer period, the scene can get rowdy and accommodation prices tend to double. But year-round sun means that this is one of the few resort towns on the coast that doesn’t turn into a ghost town at less popular times.
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BORDER CROSSING: ECUADOR VIA LA TINA
The border post of La Tina lacks hotels, but the Ecuadorean town of Macará (3km from the border) has adequate facilities. La Tina is reached by colectivo (shared transportations) taxis (S18, two hours) leaving Sullana throughout the day. Transportes Loja (073-30-9407; Sánchez Cerro 228, Piura) buses from Piura conveniently go straight through here and on to Loja (S32, eight hours).
The border is the international bridge over the Río Calvas and is open 24 hours. Formalities are relaxed as long as your documents are all in order. There are no banks, though you’ll find money changers at the border or in Macará. The Peruvian immigration office is on the left, before the international office.
Travelers entering Ecuador will find taxis (US$1) and colectivos (US$0.25) to take them to Macará, where the Ecuadorean immigration building is found on the second floor of the municipalidad (town hall), on the plaza. Most nationalities are simply given a T3 tourist card, which must be surrendered when leaving, and granted 90 days’ stay in Ecuador. There is a Peruvian consulate in Macará. See Lonely Planet’s Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands for further information on Ecuador.
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Orientation
The Pan-American Hwy, called Calle Piura at the south end of town and Calle Grau at the north, is the main drag, with businesses lining both sides. From the bridge at the south end, the Antigua (Old) Panamericana is a dirt road following the coast and sprinkled with remote, upscale hotels. The Antigua rejoins the Pan-American Hwy about 12km further south near Los Organos.
Addresses are not used much here – just look for signs in the center.
Information
There is no information office, but the website www.vivamancora.com has tons of useful information. Two ATMs (no bank) accept Visa and MasterCard.
Banco de la Nación (25-8193; Piura 625; 8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri) Change US dollars here.
Costa Norte Lavandería (Piura 212; per kg S5) Hours vary at the laundry; knock even if they look closed.
Emergency 24 Hrs (25-8713; Piura 306; 24 hr) If you get stung by a ray or break a bone, head to this full-service clinic.
Internet Marlon (25-2437; Piura 520; per hr S2; 9am-midnight) Attached to Marlon; has the newest computers and the most