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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [312]

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friendly. The cheery owner, Pilar, is also a surf instructor.

HI La Posada (25-8328; Panamericana Km 1164; campsites per person S5, dm/s/d S18/23/35) La Posada is a hushed compound close to the beach and perennially popular with backpackers. Safe, with a pleasant garden, hammocks and basic kitchen facilities, this HI-affiliated hostal has recently added a restaurant and has improved, more comfortable rooms. Owner-manager Luisa goes out of her way to make guests feel comfortable. It’s by the bridge at the southern end of town.

Hospedaje Crillón (25-8017; Paita 168; r per person with/without bathroom S24/18) One quiet block back from the beach, this place has cubbylike cells with four walls, four beds and no room for anything else – though surfers manage to get their boards in here. It is surprisingly busy.

Hostal Sausalito (25-8058, in Lima 01-479 0779; jcvigoe@terra.com.pe; Piura, cuadra 4; s/d S30/45) If the intense colors of the walls here don’t keep you up at night, the traffic noise might. The tiny rooms are acceptably clean and well kept, plus they have TVs and ceiling fans. Be careful with your valuables though.

El Pirata (25-8459; www.vivamancora.com/elpirata; Panamericana Km 1164; s/d S32/48, s/d without bathroom S22.50/29) A mishmash of austere, split-bamboo rooms, some with more gaps in the walls than bamboo. Other, slightly more solid rooms have attached bathrooms. There’s a kitchen, a few hammocks to laze in and little else. It’s very relaxed and the owners have a laissez-faire attitude to the whole endeavor.

Casa Palmera (9825-8793; r per person S45) Behind Las Olas, the new rooms here are in a bright lemon-colored building and face a small patch of vibrant grass. The abodes are immaculate and quiet, but lack any view. It’s one row of houses back from the beach.

Del Wawa (25-8427; www.delwawa.com; s/d S45/75) This surfer’s mecca has a great set-up right on the beach with warm-colored adobe rooms all facing the ocean. There are lots of hammocks, a chill space with great views of the best breaks on the beach, and surfboard rental. Del Wawa also organizes kitesurfing lessons for S120 per hour.

Hostal las Olas (25-8099; lasolasmancora@yahoo.com; r per person with breakfast S70) Rooms here are minimalist white and some come with ocean views, though they’re all the same price. The small, cozy restaurant looks onto the beach’s best breaks and is a surf-spotter’s dream. You can rent boards here for S18.

MIDRANGE

South of Máncora, along Antigua Panamericana, are multiple tranquil resorts spread out over several kilometers of beaches, including Las Pocitas and Vichayito beach. All have restaurants and can be reached by mototaxi (S5 to S10). The places further south are the quietest and are more likely to have individual bungalow accommodation. The following places are listed in the order you will reach them when traveling from Máncora.

Punta Ballenas Inn (25-8136; www.puntaballenas.com; Panamericana Km 1164; d S150; ) At the southern end of town where the Antigua Panamericana branches off, this hotel is far enough away from town to be silent but still close enough to allow frequent visits. White brick all round, this laid-back place has a great restaurant, an inviting pool, a colorful bar, foosball tables and lots of art gracing the walls. The rooms are comfortable but possibly overpriced.

Casa de Playa (25-8005; www.vivamancora.com/casadeplaya; s/d S110/175; ) About a kilometer further along the Antigua Panamericana, this large place offers up modern, slick dwellings colored in warm orange and yellow tones and constructed with lots of gently curving lines. All the large rooms have hot water, arty bits and a balcony with a hammock and fine sea views. The restaurant here is good and a lovely two-story lounge hangs out over the sea.

Sunset Hotel (25-8111; www.hotelsunset.com.pe; d S186-234, q S297-475; ) Another smooth and showy resort, the ultrahip, boutique-styled Sunset wouldn’t be out of place on the cover of a glossy travel mag. It has beautifully furnished interiors and great aqua-themed rock sculptures,

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