Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [322]
Huaraz is a fast-beating heart linking the trekking trails and roads that serve as the mountains’ arteries. It’s here that plans of daring ice climbs, mountain-biking exploits and rock-climbing safaris are hatched over ice-cold beers in fireplace-warmed bars. Meanwhile in the eastern valley, the enigmatic 3000-year-old ruins of Chavín de Huántar await daily rediscovery, while further north picture-perfect villages, steeped in pre-Inca traditions, dispense affectionate smiles like they’re going out of style.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Traipse for weeks around the magnificent peaks of the Cordillera Blanca (Click here) and Cordillera Huayhuash (Click here)
Tunnel through the mysterious millennia-old ruins of Chavín de Huántar (Click here)
Plummet down precipitous mountain-bike trails and clamber up vertical rock-climbing cliffs around Huaraz (opposite)
Wind your way through the 1000m sheer rock walls of the staggering Cañón del Pato (Click here)
Chill out on the tranquil shores of the Lagunas Llanganuco (Click here) or dozens of other emerald mountain lakes
▪ BIGGEST CITY: HUARAZ, POPULATION 48,500 ▪ AVERAGE TEMPERATURE: JANUARY 10°C TO 16°C, JULY 12°C TO 17°C
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HUARAZ
043 / pop 48,500 / elev 3091m
Huaraz is the restless capital of this Andean adventure kingdom and its rooftops command exhaustive panoramas of the city’s dominion: one of the most impressive mountain ranges in the world. Nearly wiped out by the earthquake of 1970, Huaraz isn’t going to win any Andean-village beauty contests anytime soon, but it does have personality – and personality goes a long way.
This is first and foremost a trekking metropolis. During the high season the streets buzz with hundreds of backpackers and adventurers freshly returned from arduous hikes or planning their next expedition as they huddle in one of the town’s many fine watering holes. Dozens of outfits help plan trips, rent equipment and organize a list of adventure sports as long as your arm. An endless lineup of quality restaurants and hopping bars keep the belly full and the place lively till long after the tents have been put away to dry. Mountain adventures in the off-season can be equally rewarding, but the vibe is more subdued and some places go into hibernation over the rainy season.
INFORMATION
Emergency
Casa de Guías (42-1811; www.casadeguias.com.pe; Plaza Ginebra 28G; 7-11am & 2-11pm) It offers safety and rescue courses and it will save your life if you get into trouble in the mountains – but only if you’re trekking or climbing with one of its guides certified by the Mountain Guide Association (AGM). Ask for a list of guides or see the website. Register here before heading out on a trek or climb.
Local Police (42-1221, 42-1331; José Sucre near San Martín)
National Police (42-6343; Calle 28 de Julio 701)
Policía de Turismo (42-1341; Plaza de Armas; 8am-1pm Mon-Sat & 5-8pm Mon-Fri) On an alley on the west side of the Plaza de Armas, above iPerú. Some officers speak limited English.
Internet Access
There are literally dozens of places on Plaza Ginebra and the corresponding block of Luzuriaga.
Laundry
Both of the laundries listed below are good for washing down gear and dry cleaning.
B&B/Pressmatic (42-1719; José de la Mar 674; per kg S2.50)
Lavandería Dennys (42-9232; José de la Mar 561; per kg S2.50)
Medical Services
Clínica San Pablo (42-8811; Huaylas 172; 24hr) North of town, this is the best medical care in Huaraz. Some doctors speak English.
Farmacia Recuay (42-1391; Luzuriaga 497) Will restock expedition medical kits.
Hospital Regional (42-4146; Luzuriaga, cuadra 13) At the south end of town; for