Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [324]
The worst disaster occurred on May 31, 1970, when a massive earthquake, measuring 7.7 on the Richter scale, devastated much of central Peru, killing an estimated 70,000 people. About half of the 30,000 inhabitants of Huaraz died, and only 10% of the city was left standing. The town of Yungay was completely buried by the aluvión caused by the quake and almost its entire population of 18,000 was buried with the city.
Since these disasters, a government agency (Hidrandina) has been formed to control the lake levels by building dams and tunnels, thus minimizing the chance of similar catastrophes. Today, warning systems are in place, although false alarms do occur.
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ACTIVITIES
Trekking & Mountaineering
Whether you’re arranging a mountain expedition or going for a day hike, Huaraz is the place to start – it is the epicenter for planning and organizing local Andean adventures. Numerous outfits can prearrange entire trips so that all you need to do is show up at the right place at the right time. Many experienced backpackers go camping, hiking and climbing in the mountains without any local help and you can too if you have the experience. Just remember, though, that carrying a backpack full of gear over a 4800m pass requires much more effort than hiking at low altitudes. See Trekking & Mountaineering (Click here) in the Cordilleras section for more information.
Rock Climbing
Rock climbing is one of the Cordillera Blanca’s biggest pastimes. Avid climbers will find some gnarly bolted sport climbs, particularly at Chancos (Click here), Recuay (Click here) and Hatun Machay (Click here). For some big-wall action that will keep you chalked up for days, head to the famous Torre de Parón, known locally as the Sphinx. Most trekking tour agencies (Click here) offer climbing trips, both for beginners and advanced, as part of their repertoire. Many also rent gear and with a bit of legwork and some information-gathering you could easily arrange your own do-it-yourself climbing expedition. Galaxia Expeditions (Click here), Andean Kingdom (Click here) and Monttrek (Click here) all have indoor rócodromos (climbing or bouldering walls).
Ice Climbing
With enough glaciers to sink your ice axe into for the rest of your life, the Cordillera Blanca is a frozen heaven for folks who want to learn ice climbing or attack new peaks and heights. Since many summits require a degree of technical know-how, ice climbing is a big activity in the Cordillera, and many tour and trekking operators can arrange excursions, equipment rental and lessons. The best trekking agencies, listed under Tours & Guides (Click here) have years of experience with ice climbing and safe equipment. In Parque Nacional Huascarán a certified guide or proof of credentials from your local climbing club is required (Click here).
Mountain Biking
Mountain Bike Adventures (42-4259; www.chakinaniperu.com; Lúcar y Torre 530, 2nd fl; 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) has been in business for more than a decade and receives repeated visits by mountain-bikers for its decent selection of bikes, knowledgeable and friendly service, plus its good safety record. The owner is a lifelong resident of Huaraz who speaks English and has spent time mountain biking in the USA – he knows the region’s single-track possibilities better than anyone. The company offers bike rentals for independent types or guided tours, ranging from an easy five-hour cruise to 12-day circuits around the Cordillera Blanca. Rates start at S60 per day for equipment rentals and S90 for one-day tours.
Volunteering
For the latest on volunteering opportunities, check out the community notice boards at popular gringo cafes and hangouts around Huaraz. Seeds of Hope (39-6305; www.peruseeds.org; Dámaso Antunez 782) is an aid organization that works with Huaraz’s poorest children and provides accommodations and food to volunteers for a small fee. Teach Huaraz Peru (42-5303;